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DonVoigt · 10-05-2017, 04:19 PM

Maybe a replacement pin, undersize- you could get another from Lugerdoc.
If it is not "too" loose, a little loctite will fix it, remove it - add blue loctite replace.
Don't get loctite into the "big" pin.

G.T. · 10-05-2017, 05:13 PM

Hi to all, just like any other Luger part, it has to have some difficulty in either design or application, this pin is no different? I have almost always found them waaaay too tight and nearly impossible to remove, and seldom, as you have found, so loose it is literally floating in the hole...
When installing one new, I test fit, and if loose, I upset with a slight tap or two before I ever install it? Ant then, drive in from the top just like a fattened nail!

(how's that for shade tree gun smithing!)
When installed, and if still yet loose, I rest the toggle top at the pin area on a brass block, and then upset the pin down from the inside area, expanding it slightly in the hole... Just need to sneak up on it with a small effort, as you can then conserve the BIG effort when you go to disassemble it the next time!

... best to all, til...lat'r....GT

Rick W. · 10-05-2017, 07:31 PM

You know; adhesives have come a long way. I particularly like the Loctite(Henkel) products for specific applications. In short I have learned that color has no real implication on application and there are retainers and also thread lockers. Henkel has a nice application guide(spec sheet) with each product that tells technical specifics about the particular product, which I encourage reading thereof.

That small pin has some reputation huh?.....

Some are the berries to remove from their interference fit or years of being; I am not in direct favor of Loctite application in this senerio; jmo. You might be bumped off your gunsmith's Christmas list. Some things I can say about Loctite products, use the right one and if has to be removed most of the time is heat and duress. Never know when a Thor job might be in the future.

The G.T. has some wisdom in his application of properly applied hammering, guess tapping with a nice flat faced hammer on a steel straight surface. There is a limit to such, and some cosmetics in a slightly flattened viewable surface sometimes. Kinda like, but different, to a hammer stroke to restore existing barrel timing or dovetail fitments. A little bashing goes a long ways.

A precision fitted pin in said hole, is just that; a precision fit. If the hole is out of round for whatever reason, the replacement pin you paid big bucks for, is going to suffer the same fate.

So one could ponder using a straight chucking reamer in the appropriate machine, to enlarge the hole upwards in size. Talking a small upgrade to diameter. Gage pins are relatively available in at least 0.0001" diameters, so with the Machinist Handbook on fits........yes, I read a little in that book on occasion and still not up to G.T.'s level of expertise.

Someday, that pin will have to come out; it was designed that way really.

Every owner eventually faces these things and to each their own.

Just some pondering on how to possibles.

Rick W.

10-05-2017, 04:19 PM	#1
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,443 Thanked 4,356 Times in 2,041 Posts	Maybe a replacement pin, undersize- you could get another from Lugerdoc. If it is not "too" loose, a little loctite will fix it, remove it - add blue loctite replace. Don't get loctite into the "big" pin. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

10-05-2017, 05:13 PM	#2
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,541 Thanks: 1,342 Thanked 3,742 Times in 1,020 Posts	middle toggle pin pin! Hi to all, just like any other Luger part, it has to have some difficulty in either design or application, this pin is no different? I have almost always found them waaaay too tight and nearly impossible to remove, and seldom, as you have found, so loose it is literally floating in the hole... When installing one new, I test fit, and if loose, I upset with a slight tap or two before I ever install it? Ant then, drive in from the top just like a fattened nail! (how's that for shade tree gun smithing!) When installed, and if still yet loose, I rest the toggle top at the pin area on a brass block, and then upset the pin down from the inside area, expanding it slightly in the hole... Just need to sneak up on it with a small effort, as you can then conserve the BIG effort when you go to disassemble it the next time! ... best to all, til...lat'r....GT

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10-05-2017, 07:31 PM	#3
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	You know; adhesives have come a long way. I particularly like the Loctite(Henkel) products for specific applications. In short I have learned that color has no real implication on application and there are retainers and also thread lockers. Henkel has a nice application guide(spec sheet) with each product that tells technical specifics about the particular product, which I encourage reading thereof. That small pin has some reputation huh?..... Some are the berries to remove from their interference fit or years of being; I am not in direct favor of Loctite application in this senerio; jmo. You might be bumped off your gunsmith's Christmas list. Some things I can say about Loctite products, use the right one and if has to be removed most of the time is heat and duress. Never know when a Thor job might be in the future. The G.T. has some wisdom in his application of properly applied hammering, guess tapping with a nice flat faced hammer on a steel straight surface. There is a limit to such, and some cosmetics in a slightly flattened viewable surface sometimes. Kinda like, but different, to a hammer stroke to restore existing barrel timing or dovetail fitments. A little bashing goes a long ways. A precision fitted pin in said hole, is just that; a precision fit. If the hole is out of round for whatever reason, the replacement pin you paid big bucks for, is going to suffer the same fate. So one could ponder using a straight chucking reamer in the appropriate machine, to enlarge the hole upwards in size. Talking a small upgrade to diameter. Gage pins are relatively available in at least 0.0001" diameters, so with the Machinist Handbook on fits........yes, I read a little in that book on occasion and still not up to G.T.'s level of expertise. Someday, that pin will have to come out; it was designed that way really. Every owner eventually faces these things and to each their own. Just some pondering on how to possibles. Rick W.