DWM upper value?

[Jim Mac]

Guys got one for sale. It seems complete but reblued. No idea on the date. Looks like something someone took the top off the gun and lost the lower portion of the gun. So its got the toggle, the hook on the bottom, firing pin etc. Barrel is a 9mm with the four digits serial number and lettern underneath.
Just looking for a ball park not what would you sell it for price. What would you BUY it for price. Thanks. Jim

[DonVoigt]

Based on little info, a reblued upper, depending on how it is reblued, $200 to $400.

I'd have to see it to get any closer.

[Jim Mac]

It was offered to me, but neither one of us has a real idea on the value on it. I pm'd him saying I would ask here, if I pass and its not against the rules, ill post it in the marketplace with his contact number and maybe a member here might get a deal on it. Jim

[Edward Tinker]

buy it prices, $325-$450 - depending on the type and condition


these are sell prices
as it makes a difference in value - 4 inch upper, to include toggle and all parts, matching, not buffed and reblued - DWM - upper end of what Don said

WW2 - same as above - a bit more - maybe 20%

30 luger (7.65mm) drop 25%
not matching - drop 10%
buffed hard and shiny - drop 25%

Not reblued - add 25%
6 inch - add 25%
8 inch, artillery - add 25-30%

all in my opinion - so if looking to sell and make a buck, ensure you deduct 25% or more

Ed

PS: Since I have bought a few rougher or reblued complete lugers for $600-$650 - I would be hard pressed to want to spend too much, although I have 3 lowers and 3 toggles, but need uppers

[DonVoigt]

My head is spinning, but I think I agree totally with what I think Ed said!

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

My head is spinning, but I think I agree totally with what I think Ed said!

thats just my gut feeling, but I am pretty good at values

[Lugerdoc]

To Ed et al: I have a couple of exc bore 9mmx4" barrelled WW1 receivers available in the $250 range. I'll post later in the For Sale section. Tom

[Jim Mac]

Well it turned out to be a .30 cal commercial. I wanted it as a spare for my reblued dwm. Basically the plan was to just swap the upper when I want to shoot it. So I decided to pass. But, it may work out after all. He has access to a chromed 9mm upper that hes going to check on. To the purists please turn off your computer.
My thinking is to make a two tone luger, nickled on top, blue on the bottom. I mixed a blued sw422 and nickle 2213 swapping slides. Im suppose to find out about the upper in a week or two. If it happens, ill be asking questions and posting pictures. Jim

[DonVoigt]

Jim,
If you want it to shoot, just go for it!
Nothing wrong with a two tone shooter.

Ed and I both have them; and more than one!

[Jim Mac]

That is what im hoping for. Im hoping the toggle assembly is chromed too. I m sure sure find out in a week or so. Keeping my fingers crossed. Jim

[Jim Mac]

Okay, I went ahead and bought the upper without really knowing what I bought. There is no date on the reciever. Only marking is a G on top. Hes 99% sure its a 9mm. Its coming with the toggle and link spring firing pin etc.
Its suppose to be here in the mailbox tomorrow. So ill post pics when it arrives.
Now this is where it might cost me some money.
What would a lower assembly (frame and side plate) run me? Im going ton post a wanted to buy in the classifieds but im just wondering what a reasonable price for a lower assembly would be? Since the gun wouldn't be a numbers matching pistol im wondering what a mismatched assembly realistically costs? Nickle would be even great to match the upper..
And lastly can I just get any lower to install this upper on? Thanks. Jim

[DavidJayUden]

If I am reading it right, the G is the date, specifically 1935. I'm going out on a limb here, but it seems to me that any P08 lower should fit your G upper. Not so sure about the 1900 and 1906 models, however. Not to say that minor fitting is completely out of the question.
As per value of a P08 lower, I'd say you should be able to land one for $400'ish, but remember that this part IS the gun and will require FFL transfer. Check with LugerDoc on that one.
dju

[Lugerdoc]

Jim, Sorry no stripped frames or complete lowers currently available. TH

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by DavidJayUden

If I am reading it right, the G is the date, specifically 1935. I'm going out on a limb here, but it seems to me that any P08 lower should fit your G upper. Not so sure about the 1900 and 1906 models, however. Not to say that minor fitting is completely out of the question.
As per value of a P08 lower, I'd say you should be able to land one for $400'ish, but remember that this part IS the gun and will require FFL transfer. Check with LugerDoc on that one.
dju

David's caution about the earlier models is a valid one. Be careful to get a "new model" grip frame. The old model frames are too long for this upper!

[Jim Mac]

Pics!!! Not to find a lower. Jim

[Jim Mac]

All the numbers match, even the firing pin. Jim

[Olle]

Are you sure it's chrome and not nickel? Your upper doesn't seem to be buffed too hard and nickel is easy to strip, so that could make a nice refinishing project.

[DavidJayUden]

A two-tone P08. Nice!
dju

[Jim Mac]

Im not sure on nickle or chrome. I do know its flaking off in places. If I could find a plated lower I would keep it this way.
Any information anyone could shed on the upper would be appreciated. Jim

[Jim Mac]

I want to thank Don Voigt, he had a complete lower available and since I couldnt just leave a complete upper well enough alone. I broke open the piggy bank and went and bought it. Even though thebupper and lower doesnt match, its still a luger! And a complete one at that.
So a question for you guys.....
how does a upper become seperated from a lower? The gent I bought the upper from had two matching uppers and no lowers. Don had a matching lower. I see lugers for sale with uppers not matching lowers. I was just curious. Jim