Tuning for Reliability

[Bill_in_VA]

This may be a dumb question, but with the stove pipes and short-stroking I have to wonder do you experience this with any of your other P.08s? If so, you may be limp-wristing it.

[Michael Zeleny]

Originally Posted by Bill_in_VA

This may be a dumb question, but with the stove pipes and short-stroking I have to wonder do you experience this with any of your other P.08s? If so, you may be limp-wristing it.

The only Lugers I've been able to make work are the LP08 and the 06/29. I never had any luck with the standard P08.

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by Michael Zeleny

The only Lugers I've been able to make work are the LP08 and the 06/29. I never had any luck with the standard P08.

Mike,

Whatever method you used to make these other two Lugers "work", one of which is a 9mm, should be followed with your new project Luger; as for me, getting my LP-08 to function was a lot trickier than getting my standard model to function. By "function", I mean three shot groups touching and at least 1,000 rounds shot with no jams.

Sieger

[rhuff]

Originally Posted by Bill_in_VA

This may be a dumb question, but with the stove pipes and short-stroking I have to wonder do you experience this with any of your other P.08s? If so, you may be limp-wristing it.

I don't have any idea how many P08s that you have tried firing, but if it was more than a couple, and you never could get one of them to function, I would have to consider the shooter. I mean no disrespect, but a very firm grip(one or two handed) is needed to allow the recoil response to fully cycle the toggle train. A soft grip will definitely lead to multiple malfunctions. I speak from experience concerning this.

It may be something totally different than grip, but it is certainly something to consider. The longer barreled Lugers have more sliding mass, which translates to more momentum during the rearward portion of the cycle. That could be making the difference for you.