Cleaning oil soaked and stained wood grips

Olle · 07-22-2014, 08:25 PM

The checkering sure screws it up when using oil, it makes it difficult to wipe it off and it tends to build up in the checkering if you don't get the excess off. A toothbrush is a really handy tool for this, I buy them in 6-packs at Wallyworld for $1. I usually use Formby's tung oil (which I believe is actually a mix of oil and wipe-on varnish), and it works well as long as it's fresh and thin. If you put on enough of this, you'll get a nice "almost gloss" finish, but it takes 10-15 coats to get there. If you're in a hurry, you can also use oil from an old bottle, as it tends to thicken afterwhile. This won't soak into the wood nearly as well as the fresh oil, but it will build up the finish quicker.

For the S&W grips I'd use rattle can poly, it comes in several different sheens so it's mostly a matter of finding the right kind.

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07-22-2014, 08:25 PM	#13
Olle User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 1,149 Thanks: 159 Thanked 664 Times in 318 Posts	The checkering sure screws it up when using oil, it makes it difficult to wipe it off and it tends to build up in the checkering if you don't get the excess off. A toothbrush is a really handy tool for this, I buy them in 6-packs at Wallyworld for $1. I usually use Formby's tung oil (which I believe is actually a mix of oil and wipe-on varnish), and it works well as long as it's fresh and thin. If you put on enough of this, you'll get a nice "almost gloss" finish, but it takes 10-15 coats to get there. If you're in a hurry, you can also use oil from an old bottle, as it tends to thicken afterwhile. This won't soak into the wood nearly as well as the fresh oil, but it will build up the finish quicker. For the S&W grips I'd use rattle can poly, it comes in several different sheens so it's mostly a matter of finding the right kind.