grip screw seized

[remerus]

..

[rhuff]

Glad to hear that you were able to get the grip screws out. they can be a real 'pain" as you have experienced. If that Luger were mine, I would totally dismantle it to a bare frame, and then treat the rust with a lightweight gun oil on 4-0 steel wool. It is going to take some time, but it will remove the rust, and leave any bluing that might still be present under the rust.

If you plan to refinish your Luger, then I would beadblast it with a very fine(less than 60 grit) abrasive. that will remove everything off of the steel.

[remerus]

Originally Posted by rhuff

Glad to hear that you were able to get the grip screws out. they can be a real 'pain" as you have experienced. If that Luger were mine, I would totally dismantle it to a bare frame, and then treat the rust with a lightweight gun oil on 4-0 steel wool. It is going to take some time, but it will remove the rust, and leave any bluing that might still be present under the rust.

If you plan to refinish your Luger, then I would beadblast it with a very fine(less than 60 grit) abrasive. that will remove everything off of the steel.

Ha ha yes I know what you mean I was more annoyed about pinching the frame around the mag well preventing the mag for being inserted.

I have already gone over the parts with 0000 sleel wool and oil but as have seem mentioned in this and other threads there is a need to do this "lightly" the only problem is I think ones interpretation of lightly varies from person to person and do not want to destroy the little finish I have left on her anyone have any insight to this as I'm sure the question comes up often?

Peg

[Olle]

Seems like you have a pretty even coat of brown patina, so If you're planning a refinish you can try and boil the parts in distilled water first. This will make the rust turn black, just like when you rust blue. If everything has an even patina, you might end up with a finish nice enough to keep as is. I have done this with some parts I just wanted to "freshen up" without refinishing them, and it works quite well.

[remerus]

Originally Posted by Olle

Seems like you have a pretty even coat of brown patina, so If you're planning a refinish you can try and boil the parts in distilled water first. This will make the rust turn black, just like when you rust blue. If everything has an even patina, you might end up with a finish nice enough to keep as is. I have done this with some parts I just wanted to "freshen up" without refinishing them, and it works quite well.

Sounds like an interesting idea Olle. Tell me how long do you boil the parts for when you do it? I would assume also you would need to emmerse the parts in a good mineral oil for some time afterwards to displace the water?

[Olle]

Originally Posted by remerus

Sounds like an interesting idea Olle. Tell me how long do you boil the parts for when you do it? I would assume also you would need to emmerse the parts in a good mineral oil for some time afterwards to displace the water?

Sorry for the late reply, I forgot that I posted this... Anywho, you need to degrease everything thoroughly, then boil in distilled water. You'll see the patina turning black almost immediately, but I'd still boil for about 10-15 minutes, maybe more if the brown buildup is thick.

Blow the parts dry with compressed air while they are still hot, then use a thin penetrating oil to protect them. I use Brownells "After Bluing Oil" http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod1086.aspx ), it will soak in everywhere and dry to a thin, waxy film. It's the best stuff I have found for protecting gun parts, you don't have to wipe it off or anything. Just shake off the excess and let it dry.

BTW: This method works quite well for refreshing case hardening as well. Case hardened parts are a royal PITA to blue, but it they have a brown patina you can make them look pretty darn good just by boiling them.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by rhuff

If you plan to refinish your Luger, then I would beadblast it with a very fine(less than 60 grit) abrasive. that will remove everything off of the steel.

I'd recommend doing this only if you don't mind seeing evidence that it has been done, afterward. The tiny peen marks left by the blasting will be evident under moderate magnification. The little dents will cover everything, even down into the stampings. One might consider a chemical removal of all rust and former finish, which would leave no marks.

I have two pistols that were, at the very least, bead blasted before they were refinished. In hand, with the naked eye, they look pretty good. Blasting evens out the appearance of the surfaces, smooths out small scratches and pits for the observer's eye...but if examined closely, a pistol so treated will show evidence of it.

I don't know of an easy way to get down into the recesses of the stampings to remove these marks, but the reachable surfaces should be able to be sanded, carefully, reasonably smooth. IIRC, 400 grit sandpaper would be acceptable for this. Don't forget to use a sanding block to help assure that the sanding is straight and flat--don't want to round off any corners, or create wavy-looking surfaces that are supposed to be dead flat.