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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #1
Olle
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Originally Posted by G.T. View Post
Olle is correct, matching is hard, except when you go dark.... Then, you can start light on one part, and then go dark to match... three levels of stain can be accomplished with Fibbings leather dye... light, med, dark brown... it's an aniline dye.. and has no filler, just color... then use Danish oil, natural, it works better then BLO, dries better, Good luck Rich, til...lat'r....GT
I like Formby's Tung Oil, it seems to penetrate the wood and give it a nice, deep shine. It dries pretty quick, but it takes many coats to build up the finish.

That dye sounds interesting. One problem with stain is that you need to get just about all the color on in the first shot, after the first coat is dry it will seal the wood and the next coat won't soak into the wood. It's difficult to correct the color if you don't get it right to begin with, so using stain might give you more leeway.

I used to work for a cabinet factory, and they used different dyes mixed with alcohol. One problem they had when matching wood pieces was the red and yellow tones, so sometimes they had to pretreat with red or yellow dye before the stain. I believe these dyes are available from, for example, Woodcraft. I have also heard of woodworkers taking the felt tips out of Sharpies, then soak them in alcohol to make dye.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #2
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By the way, here's an SMLE I fixed up a while back. The buttstock was the older, dark walnut and the forearm was a newer replacement made of some kind of lighter wood (possibly beech). It took a few attempts and a lot of bad language, but it matched quite nicely once I was done with it.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 07:15 PM   #3
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By the way, here's an SMLE I fixed up a while back. The buttstock was the older, dark walnut and the forearm was a newer replacement made of some kind of lighter wood (possibly beech). It took a few attempts and a lot of bad language, but it matched quite nicely once I was done with it.
Excellent!!!

I did a couple bubba-ized No 1 SMLE's as faux 'jungle carbines' using Redfield #75 peep sights w/hunting knobs and Numrich flash hiders and rubber & steel buttplates...And one #4 'jungle carbine' also...Pics around here someplace...I also have two boxes of parts for #1 and #4 rifles, plus about eight different buttstocks...

Sadly, both stock disks I have are blanks; no regimental markings...
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:57 PM   #4
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I put it all back together, to get an idea of what it would look like, compared to what it was and what an 1891 cavalry carbine should look like...

(Top to Bottom: 1891 Argentine rifle, bubba sporter, 1891 Argentine cavalry carbine, my faux carbine)
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Unread 06-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #5
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Sadly, both stock disks I have are blanks; no regimental markings...
Those discs can be found on eBay, but they're getting kinda pricey. My project was on a shoestring budget, so I simply turned a brass disc and aged it a bit by scratching and dinging it, then wiping it with Blacken-It ( http://www.micromark.com/blacken-it-4-fl-oz,7267.html ). It turned out nicely, but it would have looked much better with the markings.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 10:23 AM   #6
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Those discs can be found on eBay, but they're getting kinda pricey. My project was on a shoestring budget, so I simply turned a brass disc and aged it a bit by scratching and dinging it, then wiping it with Blacken-It ( http://www.micromark.com/blacken-it-4-fl-oz,7267.html ). It turned out nicely, but it would have looked much better with the markings.
I've seen pics of regimental marked disks on SurplusRifle Forum, but have no idea what regiments they belong to, or if there was a standard for the marks [letters/numbers/slashes]...I have one steel & one brass...

For my fake carbines, I fill the disk hole in with a wood plug, since part of it gets milled out anyway for the sling relief...
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Unread 11-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #7
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I'm doing another 1891 Argentine Mauser stock extension, to make another bubba-ized rifle into a carbine w/full-length stock; this time I milled a 1/2" wide x 3/8" high x 6" long slot in the combined bubba-ized stock & extension...Then I milled a same size Walnut 'plug' and glued it in place...I rough sanded it down...

It looks like a butt-splice, but it's actually a hidden tongue & groove splice.

When I first started, both the stock and extension looked the same color...(I had seven Mauser/Steyr/Enfield stocks to choose the extension from)...I chose an Enfield No 4 stock for the extension...The color looked close...

After sanding, the colors no longer match...

No matter. The barrel cap, front sight band & blade, and rear band/sling swivel are en route.
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Unread 11-28-2013, 06:59 PM   #8
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Those discs can be found on eBay...I simply turned a brass disc...
Here's a disk that came on the Swedish M96 stock I got off ebay...Don't have the slighest idea what it means, but it looks cool...Someone put a little bit of effort into the markings...

Edit: I found a site that deciphers the Swedish markings...Sort of...

http://www.gotavapen.se/gota/artikla..._se_rifles.htm
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Unread 11-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #9
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That disc seems to be buggered up. The "1, 2, 3" sector shows the barrel wear, and there should only be one mark. The "2-5" and "9-1" show the actual gore gauge, but it should also only have one mark.
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