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#1 |
User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 448
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Thanked 88 Times in 49 Posts
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Karl,
Yeah I have been using the fiocchi brand ammo, as that is the only kind I can find locally. And at $35 for a box of 50 I would rather have some reload. I am going to try the scotch tape idea and see what happens. Im curious about that. But your idea about the barrel b eing changed, your dead on with that. My barrel has been changed out sometime in the past as it hasa no SN on the barrel. Ill get back with you in a minute about the scotch tape deal... And to the bat cave I go... |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 448
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Well as I am kinda still a newby and am assuming the breach block is the section of the toggle that holds the firing pin. I put tape on the bottom side of this section and when thru themotions 3 times and I did not see any marks on the tape.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Irmo, SC
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Skeeter....if you ever get over here Columbia way, there are several gunshops that have Fiocchi .30 Luger for 22.00 a box. I have a 1900 Commercial that functions well, but like you, i feel the leaf spring should have more tension.
You're putting the tape in the wrong place....look at the assembled gun as if you are looking thru the rear sight..the very rear of the toggle has a projecting "tang" that sticks out...immediately below that you will see impact marks on the bluing of the frame where that tang hits at full recoil. |
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#4 |
Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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Use a piece of masking tape on the rear of the frame just under the rear projection of the toggle, not the breechblock. The opening motion of the toggle is stopped by the little projection on the very end of the rear toggle link striking the frame. The masking tape test is a firing test. With the masking tape in that location three things can happen 1) if the mainspring is too strong there will be little or no impression on the masking tape; 2) if the mainspring is about right there will be a light impression on the masking tape; 3) if the mainspring is too weak there will be a strong impression on the tape and sometimes it is even cut.
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#5 |
User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 448
Thanks: 52
Thanked 88 Times in 49 Posts
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Ron,
I was refering to the comment in item #19 for the breach block and the scotch tape. Karl had the same issue with the toggle not closing all the way. His problem was the leak spring dragging on the breach block. I was with you on the tape on the back of the gun. Me being still new to some of the names of the gun parts. Im still confused on what exactly is the breach block. I was just calling the whole toggle linkage, the toggle linkage. So when Karl mentioned breach block I was a little confused. So... if someone can help put my finger on that part. Thanks Skeeter |
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#6 |
Lifer - Twice Over
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Glen,
I call the breach block the front part of the toggle assembly that includes the firing pin housing and the extractor. KFS |
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#7 |
User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 448
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Thanked 88 Times in 49 Posts
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Gotcha! we are on the same page then. Thats the section I put the tape on when going through the motions of the toggle.
No signs of wear on the tape from the spring. Thanks Karl |
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