New Thompson 1927 A1

[ithacaartist]

Doug and Richard, I agree completely. My observations led me to the same conclusion about the fit--the pressed rails of the mag are indeed too crudely formed, and the squeeze in the vise would have been the first thing I'd have tried. However, my thoughts were that two new items that are supposed to fit together, both made by the same place, should fit together right out of the box; so the drum mag went right back to them along with the rifle so they can make good on what they've sold me.

Modifying the cheapest, most available part is the way to go, and usually the modification of the gun is my last choice. The most recent exception I've perpetrated, contrary to this rule of thumb, was to file out the mag well of my Erma KGP69, which refused to accept two spare mags, and the original didn't slide in very well, either. About 2/3 of the way in, there was a "step: in the sides of the well, an offset created by a slight misalignment of the molds used for casting the frame. The only other way to insert a mag fully would have been to pound it in with a hammer!

By the way, an Auto Ordnance 10 round drum mag's MSRP is closer to $190! (I found a discounted unit for $150 with free shipping) Want a 100 round drum? Prepare to cough up over $600! Interestingly, unless the spring for the drums is different, the only difference between the two is the shortened 10-round segment of the guide spiral retained to present this functional capacity. I'm wondering how it is justified to charge that much extra for what amounts to about $1 worth of sheet metal and few extra minutes of fitting/assembly time to install it to allow for the full capacity of 100 rounds.

[rhuff]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Modifying the cheapest, most available part is the way to go, and usually the modification of the gun is my last choice. The most recent exception I've perpetrated, contrary to this rule of thumb, was to file out the mag well of my Erma KGP69, which refused to accept two spare mags, and the original didn't slide in very well, either. About 2/3 of the way in, there was a "step: in the sides of the well, an offset created by a slight misalignment of the molds used for casting the frame. The only other way to insert a mag fully would have been to pound it in with a hammer!

I know what you are talking about with modifying a mag well. I have this very inexpensive(read cheap) Spanish Echasa Eibar 380 auto(MAB copy) that had way too tight of a mag well. There really was little that I could do to the mags without destroying them, so I worked on the alum mag well. I finally got things releived enough for the mags to enter and leave with minimal drag(from the mag catch). I don't believe that I would have done that to a Luger, but most likely would not have need to do so. Some of these very inexpensive imported handguns from the 1960s and 70s, really were Saturday Night Specials.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by rhuff

I don't believe that I would have done that to a Luger, but most likely would not have need to do so. Some of these very inexpensive imported handguns from the 1960s and 70s, really were Saturday Night Specials.

++1!

Good point. the Ermas originally sold for less than a hundred bucks. The use of cast Zamak frames (and uppers, in some cases) resulted in savings in machining costs, it obviously also opened the door for some mistakes in castings to elude QC. Luckily, it was fixable in our cases (was your .380 cast or billet?),but a good lesson to seek true quality craftsmanship.

[rhuff]

Cast alum frame.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by rhuff

Cast alum frame.

Was the material you removed presenting a similar situation--the "step" from misaligned mold elements, or was it just too small inside, overall?

[rhuff]

Just too small/tight in one particular area. Once I "hogged it out", the mags went in and out in an acceptable manner. I did not expect them to be drop free, as this pistol was made before that was popular.

This handgun is a Spanish Echasa copy of a French MAB(they used the same parts) which was a sort of copy of a Walther PP/K, but only single action....if all of that makes any sense to you.