Gotta ask a quick question.

[Terry Tiell]

I didn't get that red rust either at first and figured it wasn't getting enough humidity too. Try this its easy enough, what I did was place all my parts in a pot and then put that pot in a cooler just big enough to hold it, added just enough water to wet the bottom of the inside of the cooler and then added 2 wash cloth's that I'd soak in VERY hot water and then put in the 2 corners of the cooler and cover it over. The closed cooler with the wash cloth's that were steaming made the gun rust up MORE then in Mark's pictures.



I washed mine back off last night to touch up a few little spots I missed and when I did it washed almost all the black off. So I'm trying it again. I don't mind that it takes forever to do I just want it to turn out good.

[nukem556]

That could be part of your problem....did you do your first couple of cycles in that very high humidity state and go for 6 hours at a time?? Part of the "blue" appearance of the finished metal is the chemical compsosition of the formula, and some is the simple refractivity of light on the surface finish. From what you've said, I'd suspect you have a overly matte finish at this point, and it's gonna look blacker than it would have is the metal still had a sheen to it. You should never take the first rust cycle over 2, 3 hours max, even if youre not seeing red or orange rust. This lays down a fine oxidized base that still shines, but will protect against over-etching on subsequent cycles.

[Olle]

Originally Posted by nukem556

That could be part of your problem....did you do your first couple of cycles in that very high humidity state and go for 6 hours at a time?? Part of the "blue" appearance of the finished metal is the chemical compsosition of the formula, and some is the simple refractivity of light on the surface finish. From what you've said, I'd suspect you have a overly matte finish at this point, and it's gonna look blacker than it would have is the metal still had a sheen to it. You should never take the first rust cycle over 2, 3 hours max, even if youre not seeing red or orange rust. This lays down a fine oxidized base that still shines, but will protect against over-etching on subsequent cycles.

When I rust blue, I try and "ease on" the first two coats. I watch it develop, then catch it before there's any red rust. I did the sideplate the same way, but still got a black finish.

I actually believe it's all in the "micro texture" of the finish. If you blue a freshly machined part, you can get a beautiful blue, iridescent finish without even trying, and that makes me think that a lot of it is actually in the surface prep. Any thoughts on this?