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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Irmo, SC
Posts: 625
Thanks: 35
Thanked 168 Times in 107 Posts
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Terry, did you use distilled water for the boiling cycles?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: The Fascist State of Maryland
Posts: 224
Thanks: 55
Thanked 26 Times in 14 Posts
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Absolutely. Fresh gloves every time, distilled water, 100% pure acetone, fresh cotton balls, brand new certified sale, brand new 500 gram calibrating weight etc etc etc...
Like I said not sure what went wrong but its not hateful looking thats for sure its just coal black. I may just leave it like it is for now and see if I like it after a month or if I just HAVE to re-do it. If it stays black I'm thinking of naming her Black Betty. ![]()
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Trying to redo grand dads Luger the best I can. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,149
Thanks: 159
Thanked 664 Times in 318 Posts
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I just blued a Luger sideplate with Mark D's formula, and I got the same result as Terry. It blued quickly and easily, but ended up being the same "greasy black" as you get using Brownells formula straight out of the bottle.
One thing I noticed was that the modified formula was very thin. I usually heat the parts with a hairdryer and apply just enough formula to wet the surface. It will dry in a couple of seconds, and you will see a thin, dull coat of dried formula after the application. With this formula you could barely see that you had applied it, so maybe you need to use it in a "more aggressive" way, like applying several coats, using higher humidity etc? Mark's pictures of the rusting show a lot of red rust, but I didn't get any of that. |
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