Toggle crack

geopop71 · 03-04-2012, 07:39 PM

In answer to both there is no play whatsoever any where around the toggle, either side to side or other wise. It is a very tight gun, we fired it about three weeks ago, I cleaned it the very next day, and play with it every chance I get, examining it very closely, I would have noticed that crack right away, But in just a day or so I picked it up and saw that crack immediatly, so it must have happened long after we fired it, and not just after! There are no pieces of steel or material inside the toggle at all, Mystery!
Thank's again George

As a side note my friend has had this gun for five years, we shot it right after he aquired it. It jambed every single time, ejecting the empty case and stove piping a live round! The usual inquiries got the same answer, "Luger's are fussy eater's, try diffferant ammo" That didn't work. One day I loaded the clip up and pushed up on the button, all 8 round's flew out of the mag. Bingo! Aint supposed to do that. Bent the lips on the mag, problem solved, bought an after mkt clip to shoot with. I have heard similar stories since.

geopop71 · 03-04-2012, 07:43 PM

By the way, is removing that part a problem? How is it done? if as you say, the pin may have slid out, maybe that could have caused the crack!
George

ithacaartist · 03-04-2012, 09:03 PM

George,
It's not a big problem, though a little involved, to remove the rear link from the toggle train. The pin on which the links pivot is held in by a retaining pin. This pin is visible in your pic of the crack. Its end is the little dot on top of the left toggle grip/knob. One would carefully tap the retaining pin out until it ceases to hold in the linkage pin, which is then removed laterally to release the parts from the joint. Soak for as long as possible in penetrant (these parts may not have been removed for 90+ years!), use punches that fit and do not mar, and clamp the work in a padded vise--again, so as not to mar any finish.
Using a stand-in link for shooting should be OK, but you may have to go thru the above process repeatedly, unless you leave the alternate in place indefinitely. Otherwise it's in for shooting, out for storage/show, etc.

03-04-2012, 07:39 PM	#1
geopop71 User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Penna USA Posts: 13 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	crack In answer to both there is no play whatsoever any where around the toggle, either side to side or other wise. It is a very tight gun, we fired it about three weeks ago, I cleaned it the very next day, and play with it every chance I get, examining it very closely, I would have noticed that crack right away, But in just a day or so I picked it up and saw that crack immediatly, so it must have happened long after we fired it, and not just after! There are no pieces of steel or material inside the toggle at all, Mystery! Thank's again George As a side note my friend has had this gun for five years, we shot it right after he aquired it. It jambed every single time, ejecting the empty case and stove piping a live round! The usual inquiries got the same answer, "Luger's are fussy eater's, try diffferant ammo" That didn't work. One day I loaded the clip up and pushed up on the button, all 8 round's flew out of the mag. Bingo! Aint supposed to do that. Bent the lips on the mag, problem solved, bought an after mkt clip to shoot with. I have heard similar stories since.

03-04-2012, 07:43 PM	#2
geopop71 User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Penna USA Posts: 13 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	crack By the way, is removing that part a problem? How is it done? if as you say, the pin may have slid out, maybe that could have caused the crack! George

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

03-04-2012, 09:03 PM	#3
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,377 Thanks: 7,452 Thanked 2,613 Times in 1,380 Posts	George, It's not a big problem, though a little involved, to remove the rear link from the toggle train. The pin on which the links pivot is held in by a retaining pin. This pin is visible in your pic of the crack. Its end is the little dot on top of the left toggle grip/knob. One would carefully tap the retaining pin out until it ceases to hold in the linkage pin, which is then removed laterally to release the parts from the joint. Soak for as long as possible in penetrant (these parts may not have been removed for 90+ years!), use punches that fit and do not mar, and clamp the work in a padded vise--again, so as not to mar any finish. Using a stand-in link for shooting should be OK, but you may have to go thru the above process repeatedly, unless you leave the alternate in place indefinitely. Otherwise it's in for shooting, out for storage/show, etc.