Toggle crack

[geopop71]

Well here is the pic of the crack. Maybe you can give a better opiion after you see it. I didn't know a Luger could be repaired like you say. I asume shooting it would not be recomended for now.
geopop

[geopop71]

It goes three quarters of the way to the rear. and it is all the way through, I can see it underneath the toggle.
geopop

[geopop71]

As for the breachblock it is excellent!
geopop

[geopop71]

Uden: I will certainly heed your advice, I would really like to keep this Luger as is and not change part's if possible. If the advice is getting it fixed, then that is what I will do, If not it will have to stay as it is and just look at it! I am very happpy to have found this forum, great advice and opinions!!
geopop

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by geopop71

Well here is the pic of the crack. Maybe you can give a better opiion after you see it. I didn't know a Luger could be repaired like you say. I asume shooting it would not be recomended for now.
geopop

The crack in the toggle link is most interesting in that there is no obvious force generated in the cycle that would move material in this direction. The vector of the recoil's force, which becomes two mirror images after being divided at the area of the center toggle pin, is definitely comprised mostly of the front-to-back and comparatively very little side-to-side forces; so why is it splitting apart? Have you noticed any irregularity with the toggle pins (bending or undue wear), or excessive/asymmetric play in their joints? Any sign of significantly asymmetric wear inside the back end of the top of the frame--e.g. those projections between the ramps/rails?

No, I'd lay off using it until this issue is resolved.

Anyway, Tig welding can fix it all the way through. I think it would be good to obtain an unserviceable part from a parts/donor Luger of the same period so that the filler metal for the work would be the same as your toggle link.
I am ignorant about specific hardness the link should be, but since it is the same material, it can be annealed and heat treated again after the surface/shape/contour has been restored, but obviously before it is re-blued.

Yes, Ted, let's see a pic of yours, for comparison.

[cdmech]

I do alot of TIG welding. I would never fire that gun if I knew someone had repaired that toggle by welding. Just my two cents worth, but even if you found a #76 link the gun won't truely be "matching". Save that part as it is and just buy another link to use when you shoot it.
Marc