Tight Pin

[mjanway]

The front cross pin on my toggle assembly will not move. One reference I am using says to not force this pin as it could cause deformation or breakage of parts. I am afraid of trying to drift it out after reading this. I was trying to get into more of a thorough cleaning than field stripping offered when I noticed that my extractor number did not match the rest of my pistol. Now I'm curious to what else is in there. So, is there a trick to this? Soak and loosen? Drift it out? I'm dealing with a alphabet commercial. Thanks.

Jack

[ithacaartist]

Check for a small cross-pin which may hold the axle in place. There's one visible on top of the toggle area, holding in that pin.
It is accessible from underneath, tap towards top surface until axle is free; not necessary to tap it all the way out. Use a non-marring gunsmith's pin punch of the proper size. Stabilize your parts you're working with in a non-marring vise. Why are you taking this joint apart, anyway?

[Norme]

Hi David, There are three cross pins (or axles) in a Luger toggle train. Only the middle one is secured by a vertical pin. Regards, Norm

[mjanway]

Yes, speaking about the one that holds the breech block.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by mjanway

Yes, speaking about the one that holds the breech block.

Hmph! Mine are so loose that a light tap with a brass drift knocks them right out!

[Edward Tinker]

I have several friends that always want to do a complete takedown cleaning when they get a new gun.

Personally, I do a normal clean, thorough but not too detailed, I think a good clean is good enough, but we all are different


Ed

[wlyon]

I agree with Ed. Can see no purpose in removing this pin unless replacing the breech block or toggle. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Bill

[ithacaartist]

Oops, that's right, no pin in that joint, it was pretty late last nite. Bill and Ed echo my question. As long as the joint articulates smoothly, I don't see any practical advantage to its dis-assembly.
I suggest flushing it with your favorite penetrant, blow it dry with an air gun, lube with gun oil, wipe off excess oil. Man, and I thought mygirlfriend was a neat-freak!

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Man, and I thought mygirlfriend was a neat-freak!

Your girlfriend disassembles & cleans your Lugers???

Does she have a sister???

[mjanway]

Thanks all! I noticed in the pictures of that beautiful pistol from that fellow in Turkey and that he had the parts out that I need to get to with the toggle assembly intact so I will take the advice of leaving it alone. After noticing the condition of the extractor and spring when I took them out, thought I'd better clean the "hidden" parts as good as I could. And yes postino, every other pin on this weapon except this one about fall out when you look at them. Again thanks for the advice and I will certainly take it.

Jack

[saab-bob]

A wife or girlfriend that cleans your guns after you shoot them?
What a wonderful dream! Then I woke up.

A question on cleaning Luger's. Does anyone have any experience on using a ultrasonic tank to clean them?
My buddy has one and I was thinking of dropping a couple of mine in, to see how it works.

As an aside
I have a .22 Whitney Wolverine. It has a aluminum frame that all the parts go inside of. The only way to give it a good cleaning is to use the tank.That gun is easy to take apart,all the parts just spring out,literally. Its a Chinese puzzle to get it all back together,however!

Bob

[mjanway]

Ok, mission accomplished. The breech block, firing pin, and extractor all hail from a different pistol. One last question if I may. Where would the last two serial numbers generally be on the forward toggle link? Underneath there is a "Y" and on the side there appears to be a fuzzy "OZ" but hard to make out. I'm hoping it wouldn't be on either end where it links to the breech block or rear toggle link. Thanks

Jack

[Lugerdoc]

Jack, Your mid toggle link, may not be numered inside. The "OZ" that you mentioned on the left side is probably actually a crown/N test fire proof. The number on the rear of an Alpha commerical breech block is NOT a serial #, so these 2 digits will not match your serial, althought the last 2 digit on the inside of your extractor should match the serial #. I have seen some forward axels actually break in half inside, making them difficult to remove; Best done with a high pressure press. TH

[mjanway]

Thank you and that certainly answers all my questions on this end of the pistol. I got everything cleaned up so I will leave those links alone. Will see what other kind of trouble I can get in with the rest of it. I don't know why I didn't catch that proof mark. Tried making everything else out of it but missed the most obvious. Thanks again. Carrying away some good knowledge.

Jack