barrel replacement

[lfid]

Rich,

awesome presentation !!! verrrrry cool

retiring soon and I have several projects in mind

where do we buy the kit to do the rebarrels ? kind of kidding - but is there a source for tools that are correct ?

are the barrel vise bushings tapered ?

do the squibb rods fit like friction fit or more loosely ?

my interest is in the target / custom lugers so dont care much about the old barrel except possible resale / reuse

have you had cases that required heating with torch , grinding away the old barrel flange to release pressure , rusted threads , other heroics etc ?

do the later mauser ww2 , and the 1970s mauser parabellums seem to be less likely to need the heroics ?

thanks
Bill

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by lfid

where do we buy the kit to do the rebarrels ? kind of kidding - but is there a source for tools that are correct ?

are the barrel vise bushings tapered ?

do the squibb rods fit like friction fit or more loosely ?

have you had cases that required heating with torch , grinding away the old barrel flange to release pressure , rusted threads , other heroics etc ?

There is a guy on eBay who sells the vise & wrench; bushings are tapered; squib rods are a sliding fit in a new barrel, for older ones, Travers sells ground steel rods slightly oversize; some barrels require a thin ring to clock correctly, some require metal to be removed (I use a lathe).

Originally Posted by Rick W.

Some ideas were presented that I had not seen on a web before. Kinda like the receiver block, did that idea come from Martinis? Not too sure for myself about the rod down the bore, but sure cannot hurt.

Some like a little rosin on top of the tape, and the metal surfaces previously gone over with some acetone, I am sure you just forgot to mention those.

The comment on headspace is revelent to me.

The use of spirit levels renews my interest in such.

Receiver block idea came from my work with AR-15's/M16's; the rod down the bore is a must (for me anyway) as I have crushed a barrel [sob!] without one; I haven't needed rosin but it's a good idea (I don't have any); I use lacquer thinner to remove the tape residue; I didn't get into headspace because everyone has their own idea as to what is the correct headspace - if you like GO-NO GO gauges then they are very handy. I have several popular finish chamber cutting reamers so I can adjust headspace as needed. The spirit level is a quick & dirty way to index the barrel; you can't really see the sight alignment while it's in the vise. Here's a pic of the front sight base fixture I use on Lugers (it also doubles as a Mauser M1896 lathe center, for turning replacement barrels on Broomhandles)...



(Note the oblong shape of the bore...this is the crushed barrel from not using a squib rod)...

Here's the same tool in a Mauser receiver...for turning between centers...



Here's a pic of some mandrels and sleeves used for turning Luger/Lahti barrels, Mauser receivers, etc...



And here is why I have time this weekend to take pics & swap barrels...

[sheepherder]

And here's a Q&D setup of the two spirit levels, front sight tool, and receiver block in action...



In actual use, the levels would be secured with a rubber band to keep from falling off...I left the wrench off for clarity...