Adjustable front sight on 1915 well used Arty

[CAP Black]

What is best way to oil and loosen up a "frozen" adjustable front sight? I've tried oil several times and tapping the sight. I've tried PB Blaster, too. My problem is that these oils and break-free items apparently aren't reaching the rust and grime build-up. How to tap & where with a wood object & which side of the sight? Right or left? Top?
Thanks for the experiences.
Jack

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by CAP Black

What is best way to oil and loosen up a "frozen" adjustable front sight? I've tried oil several times and tapping the sight. I've tried PB Blaster, too. My problem is that these oils and break-free items apparently aren't reaching the rust and grime build-up. How to tap & where with a woodSide of the sight? Right or left? Top?
Thanks for the experiences.
Jack

Hi:

Have you tried Kano Kroil? This is the best product I know of to loosen frozen, rusted parts.

If this stuff doen't work, you might try some carburetor cleaner (take your grips off first please).

Also, on a 1915, you should have a "fine tune front sight". Adjustments of this sight are made with a tiny two prong spanner. Without this spanner, you will not be able to move the sight neither right nor left.

Sieger



Sieger

[chromeed]

See this Thread for info on freeing up spanner screw.
LugerForum Discussion Forums > Luger Discussion Forums > Artillery Lugers
1917 Artillary Rear Sight Adjustment
I would try soaking in Liquid Wrench then very carefully turn serew both ways if it does not move apply heat with a lighter and repeat wipe off the Liq. Wrench before applying heat.
You can get the Spanner Wrench at Mc.Master Carr per the previous Thread.
Ed Reimbold

[John Sabato]

Definitely SOAK this sight screw in KROIL... for a week or more.

[Lugerdoc]

Jack, If none of the above work, it may be that your adjusting screw is out of round. The way this unit works, is the rim of the adjusting screw moves in a slot in the bottom side of the sight blade to move it right or left. If this rim has been damaged it may be too wide to fit into the sight blade slot as the screw turns. TH

[Machine Tool]

Does any one offer replacement screws for these artillery sights?
Thanks. Craig

[chromeed]

I think that that screw is a Pan Head Drilled Spanner screw 4-40 3/8" long.
McMaster Carr (404) 346-7000 has them in Stainless Steel @ $11.83 (5 yr old price) for pack of 50 They also have the Spanner Screw Deiver Bit for $1.65
part# 94066A108
They state in the catalog that they may be avalable in zinc coated steel ask when you call.
Doc may have some Blue ones.

Ed Reimbold

[CAP Black]

I have the spanner wrench. I've applied enough pressure in each direction. The rear sight took the oil easily and works just fine. The front sight probably hasn't been moved in years. In fact both sights are set on "home" spot. The front sight, I would imagine, would get banged around and roughed up the most and would collect grime, etc. more than the rear one. The front sight does have a nick on the leading edge.
I'll try soaking it in liquid wrench. I'm not sure if I can obtain any Kano Kroil.
Soaking is probably the answer because the solution must get into the workings to take effect. However, it's sort of blocked by the very construction of the unit.
I need a toggle and a side plate for Arty # 2510.
Thanks
Jack

[A.Mifsin]

Originally Posted by John Sabato

Definitely SOAK this sight screw in KROIL... for a week or more.

Does Kroil oil do any damage to the bluing of the gun?
Alf.

[CAP Black]

The old war horse has no bluing left anyway. The bluing seems to be uniformily gone. The front part of the barrel and sight area has no bluing.
thanx
Even More
Jack

[Merick]

Another good penetrating oil can be made out of a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (flammable) if kroil or liquid wrench are not available.

Definitely let it soak for days if not a week before you go for force.

[CAP Black]

I'm trying brake fluid right now, because it has cleaning and penetrating properties and I'm working in my basement and it has no odor problems or other offensive properties. I don't think it will take days. Hours perhaps. We'll see.
thanks
Jack

[MFC]

Kroil wil not harm the finish.

[Sieger]

Originally Posted by A.Mifsin

Does Kroil oil do any damage to the bluing of the gun?
Alf.

As previously stated, Kroil won't harm either rust or salt bluing.

I've recently had an interesting experience with Kroil. My 1916 LP-08 had some stains in the grooves. These were dark stains (not pits) and I was going to use some J.P. Bore Paste to see if I could remove them.

A friend suggested Kroil first, so I gave it a try. In only one night the Kroil "got under" the stains and they were whipped away by me the next morning with only a single dry patch!! Now the bore has a mirror shine!

I've heard the old-timers talk about this stuff for years, but now I am a believer.

Sieger

[A.Mifsin]

"I've heard the old-timers talk about this stuff for years, but now I am a believer."

It looks that it is a fantastic stuff, pity we can't get it in Europe..
Alf.

[John Sabato]

Alf,

Try ordering it direct from the manufacturer --- I am not sure, but I think they will ship it to you "over there"...

http://www.kanolabs.com/

If they won't ship it... PM me.

[CAP Black]

Anyone know where to find the drawings for the front adjustable sight for a 1915 Artillery?
Thanks
Jack

[Mauser720]

Jack -

I'm not sure anyone has responded to your question about where to "tap" on the sight to free it up the fine tuning screw.

I've had good luck applying Liquid Wrench to the sight and the screw, and then tapping on the top of the screw itself. Supposedly this sets up vibrations in the steel which help the solution to pentrate the gummed up areas.

I'm not sure if a wooden dowel rod or a nylon drifting punch is firm enough to set up such vibrations. If the finish is completely gone, then your only concern is to not mar the bare steel.

If you have a ordinary pin punch of the right size with a flat tip, I'd gently try that. If you don't have these punches, then you can make one out of an ordinary nail of the right size, with the sharp tip ground flat.

The challenge is to tap on the top of this screw without maring the finish, or the metal, etc.

And as everyone is pointing out, whatever you use, let it soak for a while. No need to be in a hurry. (Maybe I am too cautious, but I let mine soak overnight.)

I have several of these spanner screw drivers, and on some of them the little metal protusions are fragile, in my opinion.

However, I have used Liquid Wrench successfully, and never broken a single spanner either.

Please let us know what works for you, because I know we are all interested.

Ron

[alanint]

A useful addition to that erzats punch made from a medium to large nail is to add a spent .22 case to the end of it.

Presto! A non marring brass punch to tap on your front sight with!

The .22 case solution works for the ends of cleaning rods, etc. when used as a ram rod and other non bore cleaning tasks.

The brass base of the case will avoid scratching most surfaces.

[Neil Young]

alanint:
Great suggestion/sollution. As with most things, the best solutions are often the most simple. The trick is to get my simple mind to come up with good simple solutions. Good job.

Neil