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#1 |
Patron
LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302
Posts: 5,089
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Gibson, Ron Ws info is right on, with possibly one exception not know to him. I know of an expert restorer in Calif. who has reconverted many of these from the 9mm back to the 7.65mm long receiver configuration, by rewelding the receiver and near perfect refinishing. The only way to tell if your's is all original, is to magnafux the receiver. But in this case, a perfect restoration is almost as good as an original. As has been said here many times before, buy the gun not the story. TH
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The following member says Thank You to Lugerdoc for your post: |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
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As a family, we have tried to figure this out for years. It started with my Grandmother. When she became sick, she started researching the pistol. From her notes, we realized it was something truely special. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
Thanks: 7
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Thank you everyone for the information and the tips. I wanted to include a few more pictures. One is of the serial number on the barrel and the frame. The other is of a spot on the grip that is missing some finish. It is the worst spot on the pistol.
I am concerned about maintaining it. At one time, it was packed in grease to keep it maintained. Grandpas logic was that cosmoline kept firearms in great shape for years. It took me a while to clean that off. Next, someone thought WD 40 was great. It varnished up and I couldn't get the chamber openned up. I lightly sprayed CRP on the stuck portions of the pistol and that removed the varnish allowing it to be openned. CRP seems to work fine, but someone mentioned not to use CRP because it is a light oil. I use Moble One Synthetic on the pistols I shoot. Can I use it on the luger as long as I use it sparingly? |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 563
Thanks: 1
Thanked 34 Times in 27 Posts
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I don't recommend using synthetic motor oil on rust blued guns. I actually use to use it to remove rust from badly rusted guns. It contains detergents. It is also hygroscopic and attracts water. Great for engines that are heated up but not for long term storage of guns.
There are several good posts on taking care of your gun, take the time to read them. What exactly are you asking us for? There is no way to trace the original owner, those records are not known at this time. Have you examined the gun under the grips and in hidden areas for any markings? Vern |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
Thanks: 7
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Thank you for the response on the synthetic oil. It is good to know. I don't mean to sound ungreatful for the advice. I know how to care for firearms, but this is in a whole different caliber (no pun intended). I guess I read one post about light oil and got a little paranoid. Gun care seems to change as the wind blows. I remember a time when WD40 and Liquid Wrench were touted by some as the greatest lubricants for firearms.
Vern, thank you specifically for the comparisons between the crests. It helps me distinguish the differences between the different Bulgarian variants. I have never seen another Bulgarian. Frankly, this was the first luger I ever saw. It has become the standard by which I measure other firearms. When I picked up my 1911, I remember thinking, "Yeah, it's nice, but it doesn't balance like the luger." It has fascinated me for over 20 years. Until yesterday, I was under a gag order and told not to discuss it with anyone. I guess I was hoping to trace the firearm to a specific person, but I realize that may be impossible. Thank you for clarifying. It is a beautiful piece on its own, and I will enjoy it as I have for years as being just that. Pat |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: US
Posts: 3,843
Thanks: 132
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But don't shoot it dry though. Apply BreakFree before shooting. BTW, if the thing is full of heavy rust, LiquidWrench (tm) works well. |
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