Replace P08 barrell

Hawkeye · 12-23-2009, 03:56 AM

You might think about building a Brass Rod that will fit tightly into the Barrels when you are trying to twist them off. Ive replaced two six inch Barrels, and if you don't have the support rod it is easy to bend a six inch barrel with the kind of Torque you will need to R&I the barrels.
Also what i have found out is that when setting the head space with the Go and No Go gages , using a Chamber reamer is great . but a little cutting really gees a very long way in this. Take your time here ,do a little cut then Check it with the gages , if you dont , then expect to be removing the Barrel again after you find out the Head Space is to much and the extractor doesn't latch on the Case rim. Usually stove piping is caused by this if the extractor does happen to latch an the gun Does fire.
Lugers are pretty tough , ive seem guys shooting them with excessive Head Space and not have any trouble ,but after shooting the tell tale sign of this is that the inside of the gun is covered with powder residue from venting past the shell casing..

LugerVern · 12-23-2009, 10:51 AM

Most gunsmiths would cut the old barrel to relieve the torque required to remove the old barrel and avoid the chance of messing up the receiver.

Oh, yes I did mess up a receiver about 30 years ago too

It was not funny at the time however and took some time to get it straight again. It happened very quickly, it does not take much to make it happen, trust me.
Not all are hard to remove, but some are and require extra special attention.

If it is a new barrel, you are going to need a setback tool to get the sight aligned properly. You can do it by hand but this requires a slow hand and much more time.

Good luck

Vern

sheepherder · 12-23-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawkeye

You might think about building a Brass Rod that will fit tightly into the Barrels when you are trying to twist them off.

A squib rod works well for this (and is brass). Brownell's has them, but you can find them cheaper elsewhere...

Hawkeye · 12-23-2009, 08:04 PM

Ive heard that about the Squib Rods postino , the one i made on my Lathe was the Bronze valve stem from a Big water valve.
My Gunsmith says to put a rod in any barrel your changing out.
As far as the front site lining up , a German Gunsmith told me that he would get them close so that the Extractor grove lines up perfectly and you get a good amount of torque on the Barrel Flange.
If the site was within a Quarter inch of lining up , they would just go ahead and twist the Barrel a little when the seating was done.
He said before WW2 when he was a kid working at the DMW Factory ,they used a form of shellac on the threads ,and the torque really wasn't all that much on locking in the barrels. It just that all these years of being on those threads is what makes them difficult to remove.
He loved the idea of using High Heat Thread Lock ,but they didn't have that back then .

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12-23-2009, 03:56 AM	#1
Hawkeye User Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You might think about building a Brass Rod that will fit tightly into the Barrels when you are trying to twist them off. Ive replaced two six inch Barrels, and if you don't have the support rod it is easy to bend a six inch barrel with the kind of Torque you will need to R&I the barrels. Also what i have found out is that when setting the head space with the Go and No Go gages , using a Chamber reamer is great . but a little cutting really gees a very long way in this. Take your time here ,do a little cut then Check it with the gages , if you dont , then expect to be removing the Barrel again after you find out the Head Space is to much and the extractor doesn't latch on the Case rim. Usually stove piping is caused by this if the extractor does happen to latch an the gun Does fire. Lugers are pretty tough , ive seem guys shooting them with excessive Head Space and not have any trouble ,but after shooting the tell tale sign of this is that the inside of the gun is covered with powder residue from venting past the shell casing..

12-23-2009, 10:51 AM	#2
LugerVern User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Virginia Posts: 563 Thanks: 1 Thanked 34 Times in 27 Posts	Most gunsmiths would cut the old barrel to relieve the torque required to remove the old barrel and avoid the chance of messing up the receiver. Oh, yes I did mess up a receiver about 30 years ago too It was not funny at the time however and took some time to get it straight again. It happened very quickly, it does not take much to make it happen, trust me. Not all are hard to remove, but some are and require extra special attention. If it is a new barrel, you are going to need a setback tool to get the sight aligned properly. You can do it by hand but this requires a slow hand and much more time. Good luck Vern

12-23-2009, 08:04 PM	#4
Hawkeye User Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ive heard that about the Squib Rods postino , the one i made on my Lathe was the Bronze valve stem from a Big water valve. My Gunsmith says to put a rod in any barrel your changing out. As far as the front site lining up , a German Gunsmith told me that he would get them close so that the Extractor grove lines up perfectly and you get a good amount of torque on the Barrel Flange. If the site was within a Quarter inch of lining up , they would just go ahead and twist the Barrel a little when the seating was done. He said before WW2 when he was a kid working at the DMW Factory ,they used a form of shellac on the threads ,and the torque really wasn't all that much on locking in the barrels. It just that all these years of being on those threads is what makes them difficult to remove. He loved the idea of using High Heat Thread Lock ,but they didn't have that back then .