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#1 |
Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso
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Is it considered "over the top" to handle collector-grade Lugers (or any collectable firearm) with white cotton conservator's gloves? Do most of you folks do this?
There are a number of collectors that require the use of gloves (cotton or nylon) to handle collector guns, and that is a very good precautionary practice. This practice grows out of a modicum of concern regarding the effect of sweaty hands on original bluing. Believe it or not, there are some individuals whose hands are so “sweaty” either with salts or acid that their handling of unprotected guns will result in damage to the bluing in a relatively very short period of time. To my way of thinking, any collector and/or dealer that permits handling of their guns (and they should, if the gun is for sale and there is the prospect of a serious buyer) has the responsibility to “wipe down” their guns after display or handling. Is it permissable to cycle the action, remove and replace the magazine, and generally "handle" a collector Luger? If you know what you are doing, and that is a big IF, then there should be no objection to the actions you mentioned. But, I have personally observed an individual pick up a $5000+ Luger and repeatedly work the action and snap the trigger before someone could stop him. Idiots should not be allowed to pick up a collector gun but unfortunately your average idiot looks a lot like me. It is hard to tell beforehand. Why is Renaissance Wax suggested for firearms that will never be fired? Couldn't a firearm preserved with RW be put back into service by simply cleaning the bore and lubricating? Actually, a gun treated with RW would not require any cleaning before putting it back into service. RW is a microcrystalline wax that is totally inert and provides superlative protection against atmospheric corrosion. It seals the surface against oxidation and is one of the most benign and beneficial treatments that can be applied to a properly cleaned collector firearm. It is used by major museum collections (Smithsonian included) and I use it myself. Are there any high-quality reprints of the original Luger owner's manuals out there? I'm assuming originals are cost prohibitive as well as scarce. Originals are scarce and expensive, but repros abound and can very frequently be found, as Ed indicates, on eBay. I hope I am not being rude by asking so many questions in a single post, and appreciate in advance your thoughts and time! Rude? Absolutely not.
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#2 | |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
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![]() I've toyed with the idea of carrying surgical gloves with me to a gun show, and a jewelers loupe, but I think anything that requires that much attention is going to be beyond my means anyway... ![]() As an aside, Ron has one of the more common faces (from his avatar, anyway); I think we all know someone who has his looks and feel comfortable around them...None of the ones I know are idiots... ![]() |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Ron, et al, I can't thank you enough for your sage advice. What an outstanding forum!
Your comments remind me of Gander Mountain, where customers are given free reign to handle the rifles regardless of the cleanliness of their hands. I cringe when I see a firearm, regardless of value, put back on the shelf after handling without a wipe-down. I've even seen an employee fill a shopping cart with rifles and shotguns without protecting the pieces from each other. You stated that "If you know what you are doing, and that is a big IF, then there should be no objection to the actions you mentioned," with regard to cycling the action. Would you be kind enough to describe how the action should be cycled? If the action is cycled, how can spring tension be relaxed for subsequent storage without dry firing? (I am trying to avoid becoming one of the idiots you mentioned.) Yes, I've been looking on Ebay, and I'm assuming the manual you speak of is the English translation by John Baum of the original WW2 German Manual for the 9mm Luger Pistol dated 1935. (Pistole 08 H.Dv. 255 L.Dv. 405 Berlin 1936 Berlag, Offene, Worte, Berlin D35.) Would this manual be appropriate for my 1941 Mauser? I'm not concerned with gleaning technical advice from the manual as much as I am some modicum of historical accuracy. Again, my appreciation to you gentlemen for your time and advice. |
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#4 |
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Not really. I thought that way in the past too (because relatively older timer Nemo had said so). But later on I found my nake eyes are not very good, probably because I am becoming older and older every year..... 3x-7x loupe is very useful to check any blue on pits, ridges around stamp, rust in the stamp, halo, scratches, muzzle hint of relining, etc. But the precondition is good light source. Gun show seldomly offers good light, actually none of those shows that I went had good light.......... and the air quality inside was poor .....
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