Broomhandle disaster....

alvin · 08-11-2009, 10:51 PM

This patent picture is not too far away from CH. There is no plunger, in its place, it's a spring plug. It's extremely hard to disassemble the coupling out even when the lock work is taken out of the frame. My way was pushing the hammer pivot out to release the hammer and main spring, then it's easy to take the coupling out. But obviously that does not work when the lock work is in the frame.

Is it still in the frame?

alvin · 08-11-2009, 11:44 PM

JBW's method must be revised on CH -- there is no plunger pretruding out of the lock work in the front, so there is nothing that you can push in from the front, as shown on JBW's article.

It can be put in, then there must be a way to take it out. Somehow you have to hold the main spring back so it does push the coupling..... how about just pushing the plug backwards using a tool.....

Sam Steele · 08-12-2009, 12:06 AM

Thanks for the diagramme, Postie, and your comments, Alvin.

The only problem with drifting out the sear spring, is trying to get it back in for reassembly! That mainspring is one stiff critter. It would put Viagra to shame

.

Was there a tool....something fork-shaped......that would insert between the mainspring "cap" and rocker, so that by applying rearward pressure, the rocker would slip away?
Still thinking about that.

As for solvent, perhaps pure mineral spirits to remove the dried gummy residue, then Hoppes "Blast and Clean" for good measure, prior to oiling. I still like Rust Check, or G96.....but do I need a lubricant with higher viscosity?

I'll post some pics soon. Thanks for yours, Alvin.

Cheers,

Bill

Sam Steele · 08-12-2009, 12:09 AM

Oh yes.....The lock is out of the frame. Just needed some TLC and swear words

.

The Scottish in me thanks you, Roland.....Carb cleaner sounds good, too.

Cheers,

Bill

sheepherder · 08-12-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Steele

Oh yes.....The lock is out of the frame.

If that is so, then the rocker coupling must be in correctly...no???

Yep, those springs got some tension to them...but why are you trying to drift out the sear spring??? The forked tool sounds like a good idea. Release the tension and remove the spring, coupling, and the two end plugs and the rest look like they'll push right out...

IIRC, that drawing/pic with the spur hammer is from the patent drawings...I have the 10 or 12 pages here somewhere...

08-12-2009, 12:06 AM	#3
Sam Steele User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: CANADA Posts: 38 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	We're gettin' there...... Thanks for the diagramme, Postie, and your comments, Alvin. The only problem with drifting out the sear spring, is trying to get it back in for reassembly! That mainspring is one stiff critter. It would put Viagra to shame. Was there a tool....something fork-shaped......that would insert between the mainspring "cap" and rocker, so that by applying rearward pressure, the rocker would slip away? Still thinking about that. As for solvent, perhaps pure mineral spirits to remove the dried gummy residue, then Hoppes "Blast and Clean" for good measure, prior to oiling. I still like Rust Check, or G96.....but do I need a lubricant with higher viscosity? I'll post some pics soon. Thanks for yours, Alvin. Cheers, Bill __________________ "Be not afraid of any man, no matter what his size. When trouble threatens call on me, and I will equalise."

08-12-2009, 12:09 AM	#4
Sam Steele User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: CANADA Posts: 38 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Oh yes.....The lock is out of the frame. Just needed some TLC and swear words. The Scottish in me thanks you, Roland.....Carb cleaner sounds good, too. Cheers, Bill __________________ "Be not afraid of any man, no matter what his size. When trouble threatens call on me, and I will equalise."

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08-11-2009, 10:51 PM	#1
alvin User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: US Posts: 3,843 Thanks: 132 Thanked 729 Times in 438 Posts	This patent picture is not too far away from CH. There is no plunger, in its place, it's a spring plug. It's extremely hard to disassemble the coupling out even when the lock work is taken out of the frame. My way was pushing the hammer pivot out to release the hammer and main spring, then it's easy to take the coupling out. But obviously that does not work when the lock work is in the frame. Is it still in the frame?