1st time poster and Luger owner

PhilOhio · 08-11-2009, 02:06 PM

Ron, I understand what you are saying about linseed oil, especially in a military context. Your experience is no different than mine, regarding the surplus military guns we have seen and tried to rehab. I've probably done 50 or more. Soldiers slop it on, not knowing what to do and what not to do. Over 20 - 30 years, it builds up into a gloppy mess of combined grime, mud, lubricating oil, unburned powder, and body oils. That's what we scrub off, or try to.

As for softening and ruining the wood on these rifles, it is not the linseed oil that is doing it. It is the rifle lubricating oil and solvent. Next time you check, you will see it is worst where metal meets wood, especially toward the rear of the action. Sometimes the only answer is a different stock set.

When rifles sit for long periods in racks, butt down, all this mess percolates downward into the wood. But don't blame the linseed oil.

And unboiled linseed oil is the wrong stuff. Which is why the experts in preserving gun wood pointedly recommend against using the raw, unboiled kind. Sometimes when you are buying it, is is hard to determine what you are looking at, from the label.

If you clean the wood thoroughly and then start out using the right linseed oil, judiciously, all these bad things will not happen. I've been doing it for a long time, so I know what works and what does not. I like to put an oil finish on military longarms which are supposed to have it. And none of mine come out looking like 90-year-old reject Enfields.

On the dried scrubbed wood, use a CLEAN soft cloth to wipe on a wet coat of boiled linseed oil. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. If any remains, wipe it off with a CLEAN dry cloth. After 3 - 7 days, wipe on another light coat and then wipe it off. That should do it, unless the wood starts looking dried out. ...which might be years in the future.

But if oiled gun wood starts looking dirty, one cleans it. Like most of us do to ourselves. Well, maybe except for Michael Moore.

But having extolled the virtues of boiled linseed oil, I say "amen" to your recommendation of the Watco finish. It's wonderful stuff, and you don't have to wonder about how the job will come out.

suum cuique · 08-28-2009, 07:05 PM

Phil.
what do you mean with "cooked linseed" oil? Can I buy already cooked linseed oil or do I have to heat it up til it boils ?
What about light colored "English lemon oil"? I used this on funiture. Should I use this for grips, too?
Thanks,
Andy

08-28-2009, 07:05 PM	#2
suum cuique User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: MD / Currently about 9000 klicks east of the Potomac Posts: 497 Thanks: 108 Thanked 47 Times in 35 Posts	Phil. what do you mean with "cooked linseed" oil? Can I buy already cooked linseed oil or do I have to heat it up til it boils ? What about light colored "English lemon oil"? I used this on funiture. Should I use this for grips, too? Thanks, Andy Last edited by suum cuique; 10-02-2009 at 04:03 PM.

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08-11-2009, 02:06 PM	#1
PhilOhio User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 145 Thanks: 5 Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts	Ron, I understand what you are saying about linseed oil, especially in a military context. Your experience is no different than mine, regarding the surplus military guns we have seen and tried to rehab. I've probably done 50 or more. Soldiers slop it on, not knowing what to do and what not to do. Over 20 - 30 years, it builds up into a gloppy mess of combined grime, mud, lubricating oil, unburned powder, and body oils. That's what we scrub off, or try to. As for softening and ruining the wood on these rifles, it is not the linseed oil that is doing it. It is the rifle lubricating oil and solvent. Next time you check, you will see it is worst where metal meets wood, especially toward the rear of the action. Sometimes the only answer is a different stock set. When rifles sit for long periods in racks, butt down, all this mess percolates downward into the wood. But don't blame the linseed oil. And unboiled linseed oil is the wrong stuff. Which is why the experts in preserving gun wood pointedly recommend against using the raw, unboiled kind. Sometimes when you are buying it, is is hard to determine what you are looking at, from the label. If you clean the wood thoroughly and then start out using the right linseed oil, judiciously, all these bad things will not happen. I've been doing it for a long time, so I know what works and what does not. I like to put an oil finish on military longarms which are supposed to have it. And none of mine come out looking like 90-year-old reject Enfields. On the dried scrubbed wood, use a CLEAN soft cloth to wipe on a wet coat of boiled linseed oil. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. If any remains, wipe it off with a CLEAN dry cloth. After 3 - 7 days, wipe on another light coat and then wipe it off. That should do it, unless the wood starts looking dried out. ...which might be years in the future. But if oiled gun wood starts looking dirty, one cleans it. Like most of us do to ourselves. Well, maybe except for Michael Moore. But having extolled the virtues of boiled linseed oil, I say "amen" to your recommendation of the Watco finish. It's wonderful stuff, and you don't have to wonder about how the job will come out.