Excellent Luger Bullet

PhilOhio · 07-29-2009, 01:31 PM

If I had the 6-cavity mold, I'd run out of hard-to-get primers a lot faster than I do already.

Regarding mold heat, a BIG advantage of the aluminum molds is that they are not as sensitive to this as iron/steel molds. You start producing perfect bullets almost right away, and if you have to step away for a few minutes, when you come back they will still continue to come out "perfect".

But there's even a better way to guarantee this.

For years and years, when I would finish molding I would wipe a light coat of WD-40 on the blocks, inside and out, and put them into the box. Next time I would use the block, I would have to clean the lube from the cavity and cast a few bad ones before things would be up to snuff.

NEVER MORE.

An acquaintance who casts them commercially, on a large scale, set me straight. When you are finished, leave the last bullet(s) and sprues in place. If the mold is steel, wipe a thin coat of protectant on the exterior. Put it away.

Next time around, cut the sprue, drop the bullet, and start casting. But here's the amazing part. The FIRST bullet will probably come out perfect, even from a cold steel/iron mold. This will be true even if you have not used the mold for a couple years.

I have no idea why this is true. To me it was counter intuitive, after all I thought I had learned in 49 years of bullet casting. So I never ever store my molds any other way than filled. And I've never seen this method produce a spot of rust in a cavity. It is still hard for me to believe that I can usually take a cold steel Lyman or RCBS mold from storage, drop the last bullet, and start casting perfect ones if my molten lead is at working temperature...which is normally on the low end, 650 to 700 degrees these days. With the Lee aluminum molds, you can almost be sure that the first ones will be perfect every time.

It must be that the stored bullet is protecting whatever type of cavity surface conditioning occurs during casting, and is also preventing oxygen from interfering with this during long term storage. ...and that this is actually a more important consideration than mold block temperature which is, I think, what most of us experienced old school casters have always been taught and have believed.

Has this been your experience in using the 6-cavity molds also, Ice? I've never owned any of those.

It's all about fun. Have some.

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07-29-2009, 01:31 PM	#12
PhilOhio User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 145 Thanks: 5 Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts	If I had the 6-cavity mold, I'd run out of hard-to-get primers a lot faster than I do already. Regarding mold heat, a BIG advantage of the aluminum molds is that they are not as sensitive to this as iron/steel molds. You start producing perfect bullets almost right away, and if you have to step away for a few minutes, when you come back they will still continue to come out "perfect". But there's even a better way to guarantee this. For years and years, when I would finish molding I would wipe a light coat of WD-40 on the blocks, inside and out, and put them into the box. Next time I would use the block, I would have to clean the lube from the cavity and cast a few bad ones before things would be up to snuff. NEVER MORE. An acquaintance who casts them commercially, on a large scale, set me straight. When you are finished, leave the last bullet(s) and sprues in place. If the mold is steel, wipe a thin coat of protectant on the exterior. Put it away. Next time around, cut the sprue, drop the bullet, and start casting. But here's the amazing part. The FIRST bullet will probably come out perfect, even from a cold steel/iron mold. This will be true even if you have not used the mold for a couple years. I have no idea why this is true. To me it was counter intuitive, after all I thought I had learned in 49 years of bullet casting. So I never ever store my molds any other way than filled. And I've never seen this method produce a spot of rust in a cavity. It is still hard for me to believe that I can usually take a cold steel Lyman or RCBS mold from storage, drop the last bullet, and start casting perfect ones if my molten lead is at working temperature...which is normally on the low end, 650 to 700 degrees these days. With the Lee aluminum molds, you can almost be sure that the first ones will be perfect every time. It must be that the stored bullet is protecting whatever type of cavity surface conditioning occurs during casting, and is also preventing oxygen from interfering with this during long term storage. ...and that this is actually a more important consideration than mold block temperature which is, I think, what most of us experienced old school casters have always been taught and have believed. Has this been your experience in using the 6-cavity molds also, Ice? I've never owned any of those. It's all about fun. Have some.