.30 Caliber failure to feed

w2ec · 07-04-2009, 10:18 AM

G.T.

Yes, good idea and yes I'm going to try that. The more I manipulate the toggle by hand the more I am convinced that the new Wolff spring is considerably stiffer than the original in my pistol. One other factor is that with the original spring I never had a round fail to extract/eject. It seems that with the "light" factory loads, the Wolff spring may be so stiff that it won't even allow the toggle to come back far enough to extract the case. When I fire the gun, I do feel recoil of course and I do sense movement of the toggle, but not much. My handloads that actually fully functioned the action were certainly brisker than the factory loads.

When I put the original spring back in I will also drop my test reloads back some as I may not need that much power with the original spring. I will also use the "tape" across the back of the frame as someone else mentioned, to get an idea of what is happening there. That will give me something else to try when I get off duty today and get home later this afternoon.

A question for the group, opinions welcome....... since I can get the luger to function fine with the new Wolff spring using my handloads that do not exhibit over pressure signs, should I eventually keep the Wolff spring in or, if I can get the pistol to function with the original spring and my handloads, would you use the Wolff spring and hotter loads or the original spring with hopefully lighter loads?

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07-04-2009, 10:18 AM	#13
w2ec User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Apalachin, NY Posts: 12 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	G.T. Yes, good idea and yes I'm going to try that. The more I manipulate the toggle by hand the more I am convinced that the new Wolff spring is considerably stiffer than the original in my pistol. One other factor is that with the original spring I never had a round fail to extract/eject. It seems that with the "light" factory loads, the Wolff spring may be so stiff that it won't even allow the toggle to come back far enough to extract the case. When I fire the gun, I do feel recoil of course and I do sense movement of the toggle, but not much. My handloads that actually fully functioned the action were certainly brisker than the factory loads. When I put the original spring back in I will also drop my test reloads back some as I may not need that much power with the original spring. I will also use the "tape" across the back of the frame as someone else mentioned, to get an idea of what is happening there. That will give me something else to try when I get off duty today and get home later this afternoon. A question for the group, opinions welcome....... since I can get the luger to function fine with the new Wolff spring using my handloads that do not exhibit over pressure signs, should I eventually keep the Wolff spring in or, if I can get the pistol to function with the original spring and my handloads, would you use the Wolff spring and hotter loads or the original spring with hopefully lighter loads?