new to me Luger-it needs help!!

Ice · 04-02-2009, 07:57 PM

This will be a very interesting project. I kind of envy you because I like restorations - as in bringing the dead to life - a lot. Its been a hobby for years. I'll be very interested to see your progress on the old Luger.

Charlie

sovblocgunfan · 04-02-2009, 09:41 PM

Ice,

Thanks. We'll see. Where in Texas are you?

Depends on what you call restoration-I think the very best I can hope for is minor pitting only under the grip panels-if so I can do a good quality cold blue. I've done that before on an M44 and it turned out really well-using a dish detergent w/ phosphate really helps to set up the bluing.

Question for the field: can I replicate straw with a cold blue (OxphoBlue or blue wonder, likely), or is it limited to hot or rust bluing??

Ice · 04-03-2009, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sovblocgunfan

Ice,

Thanks. We'll see. Where in Texas are you?

Depends on what you call restoration-I think the very best I can hope for is minor pitting only under the grip panels-if so I can do a good quality cold blue. I've done that before on an M44 and it turned out really well-using a dish detergent w/ phosphate really helps to set up the bluing.

Question for the field: can I replicate straw with a cold blue (OxphoBlue or blue wonder, likely), or is it limited to hot or rust bluing??

I live near Houston. The straw blueing sticky is excellent. Youtube has an interesting video on coloring gun parts with nitre blueing salts. Depending on temp you can get a straw color with that method too. The stick method here is much safer though IMHO.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qM_Z1Tax2k0

Charlie

sovblocgunfan · 04-03-2009, 07:09 PM

Ok y'all, first question for help.

I'm trying to drift out the coupling link pin so that I can separate the coupling link from the back half of the toggle assembly. So far it has defeated me.

It's not bent, b/c I have full travel, with no sticking. Part moves freely on its axis, with no histeresis (doesn't wobble). Is there a trick to it? Is there maybe a stop rim on one side of it, so that I might be trying to drift it out from the wrong side?

Also, after having started my detail cleaning I am finding some bluing underneath the rust I have been able to remove, and under some of the chrome plating that is starting to flake away. It's not great, but it's there, and the pitting may not be as bad as I feared. So, I am cautiously hopeful that I can do a good quality cold blue on this (yay!!), rather than coat it . So, here's what I need to know:

I've observed that there are three kinds of finishes on these guns, based on photos I've seen on this site: blued, blued/strawed, and in the white. Can someone point me to a list that tells me what parts are blued, what parts are strawed, and what remains in the white? If the option to blue is going to be put on the table, I want to make it appear proper and respectable. Thanks!

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04-02-2009, 07:57 PM	#1
Ice User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 552 Thanks: 13 Thanked 69 Times in 57 Posts	This will be a very interesting project. I kind of envy you because I like restorations - as in bringing the dead to life - a lot. Its been a hobby for years. I'll be very interested to see your progress on the old Luger. Charlie

04-02-2009, 09:41 PM	#2
sovblocgunfan User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ice, Thanks. We'll see. Where in Texas are you? Depends on what you call restoration-I think the very best I can hope for is minor pitting only under the grip panels-if so I can do a good quality cold blue. I've done that before on an M44 and it turned out really well-using a dish detergent w/ phosphate really helps to set up the bluing. Question for the field: can I replicate straw with a cold blue (OxphoBlue or blue wonder, likely), or is it limited to hot or rust bluing??

04-03-2009, 07:09 PM	#4
sovblocgunfan User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok y'all, first question for help. I'm trying to drift out the coupling link pin so that I can separate the coupling link from the back half of the toggle assembly. So far it has defeated me. It's not bent, b/c I have full travel, with no sticking. Part moves freely on its axis, with no histeresis (doesn't wobble). Is there a trick to it? Is there maybe a stop rim on one side of it, so that I might be trying to drift it out from the wrong side? Also, after having started my detail cleaning I am finding some bluing underneath the rust I have been able to remove, and under some of the chrome plating that is starting to flake away. It's not great, but it's there, and the pitting may not be as bad as I feared. So, I am cautiously hopeful that I can do a good quality cold blue on this (yay!!), rather than coat it . So, here's what I need to know: I've observed that there are three kinds of finishes on these guns, based on photos I've seen on this site: blued, blued/strawed, and in the white. Can someone point me to a list that tells me what parts are blued, what parts are strawed, and what remains in the white? If the option to blue is going to be put on the table, I want to make it appear proper and respectable. Thanks!