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#1 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Chandler Arizona
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Just a quick question... why not the 5.56 mil stuff? All it seems you'd have to do is anneal it?? I'm not a reloader, so I plead ignorance... Best to you, til...lat'r...GT
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#2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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I believe (if not correct me) the 5.56 brass has thicker case walls then .223 Remington same goes for .308 rem. brass and 7.62 NATO brass. .223 rem is not as hot as NATO spec ammo, .223 rem. runs at about 3000 fps where 5.56 NATO runs at about 3250 fps in my AR 15 20" barrel.
You can tell by the head stamp on the case, NATO will have the circle with a cross in it. In a combat situation all NATO country's that run across another country's ammo that find the circle with a cross in it know it's good ammo. Also SAMMI states that firing 5.56mm in a .223 rem. chamber is an unsafe ammunition chamber combination. My AR 15's love XM193 from Lake City that's box and sold by Federal, good stuff but expensive. I also love the 5.56 brass for reloading for my AR 15's it was plentiful but harder to find now. Just my .02 |
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#3 | |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
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I would expect the military brass is made with thicker walls intentionally, to lessen the chance of a blowout...while commercially, the manufacturers want to hold costs down as much as possible... Case wall thickness (*not* neck thickness) only seems to be an issue for those of us concerned with 'cartridge conversion'... BTW: I am not stating that you won't have to neck ream .223 commercial...only that you may not need to... Off -topic = I can recall back when only Berdan primed cases were available for the 7.63 Mauser and 7.65 Luger, there were all kinds of ways to remove the spent primers...some really crude...("fill case with water and use a tight fitting dowel to hydraulically eject the primer")... Disclaimer: I am not an expert on any of this, these are just my observations from practical experience... ![]() Lessee...What was this thread about?... ![]() |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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I sent the dealer an email last night. No response yet. Here is a copy of the email message sent to him:
From: "Duane Urban" <dtu2179@comcast.net> To: <email@firearmsbroker.com> Subject: Date: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 11:33 PM Hello, I bought the German Luger from you at the York PA gun show on 2/22/09. When I purchased the gun you told me that it had been manufactured between 1940-1942. Research into this gun with the assistance of the members of Luger.com has shown that this is not true. The gun was actually manufactured between 1909 and 1914. In addition, you advertised the gun as 9mm, which is what went on the state police paperwork here in Maryland, this was also untrue. The gun is actually chambered in 7.65 Luger. Please respond back to this email and address these issues. Duane Urban |
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#5 |
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For anyone who is interested, here is the dealers web site. Based on my recent experiance, this guy is NOT
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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So yesterday I got the 30 Luger Fiocci ammo and took the Luger to a friends house to shoot. Would not function. So I am asking for my money back from the dealer.
Now, I am looking to replace it with a late 30s - 40s era Luger with Nazi markings. Doesn't have to be a safe queen. I would like all matching and definately must must shoot/function flawlessly. If any one has one of those that they are getting rid of let me know. |
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