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User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Italy
Posts: 22
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
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Let's go to the PC and let's cancel the bottle first. This is very easy, just use ERASER ![]() Now with the MAGIC WAND select white background and cancel that too. The trick here is to select the proper tolerance in order to select the greatest part or the white background without removing any clear area of the gun. It's a back a forth process that you will to master quickly. ![]() This is the right time to correct color, contrast and saturation. They really depend by the way our own eyes see the screen and it's difficult for me suggesting the right strategy. Generally speaking: - more contrast means a better definition of detail - our guns are not really colorful so color management is always simple The big problem with MAGIC WAND is that it mathematically generates a very sharp edge of the object. This makes the photo looking "fake". The best I could suggest is to use the tool SMUDGE to make the edge "soft". This is a super boring step, but it's a rewarding one! There is an enlarged area of the trigger area where you can see the effect of SMUDGE on the right. ![]() It's time now to generate a new layer that you fill in pure white and that will be the new background. ![]() Shot at 2007-07-12 I like to put in my photo a kind of signature. I use my avatar, and this is how it originally looks. ![]() The following step is to generate another new layer where we can put the logo. ![]() Now we have the subject flying in a milky space that look "flat", we definitely need something suggesting that this is a 3D environment. Let's use the logo like it was printed on a "virtual" ground. ![]() Use the tool LAYER/SHADOW to generate logo shadow Now carefully check the "consistency" of the photo. Mud strains should look OVER the logo, the shadow beamed by the gun and the logo should be pointed toward the same direction. To make thing more realistic cancel a little bit of the mud stains so that you can see the text through them. ......
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