Mitchell Luger Sucker

Alx · 12-25-2006, 06:32 PM

The 3 (three) Houston, Texas stainless steel Lugers I had all were problematic. I think the main problem was soft metal, and lack of hardening where it was supposed to count. The guns can't hold precision and if they happen to wear evenly, will work for a time, but not long before they beat themselves up internally.
Finish surfaces look overbuffed and wavy on every one of them I have ever seen, in person or in photos, and that includes about maybe 30 different ones. I hate them with passion now. If the one you have/had was able to shoot more than just a few rounds, it probably has beaten its malleable frame toggle ramps and has swollen metal on the sides there now.
Any Genuine German shooter Luger can be re-barreled with an aftermarket or spare 6-inch barrel, labor cost me 120 USD, and the finish chemically stripped off to approximate a white metal gun, and you will have a well made, hard steel, precise shooting gun, with readily available replacement parts accessed via eBay, Sarco, or Numrich to name a few sources.
Before: rust partially removed with wire brush, but pitting evident on side plate, trigger and nearby frame, and other places.

After: rust removed with Naval Jelly, surface selectively filed to lessen appearance of pitting, finish completely stripped from exterior of gun...

Keep it oiled/waxed, but then, what is going to hurt it anyway, a bit of surface rust. ? Hah !!
This 1917 was a rusty mess, which I Navel Jelly treated, wire brushed, filed a bit on, and stripped the finish off, and had a new Bohler Stahl Austrian 6-inch barrel installedl. The only finish I have on it is a very thin mix of Birchwood Casey cold-blue mixed with mostly blue and rust remover, which prevented the gun from going back to black, keeping a very light gray tone instead.

Pretty on the surface, from a distance, but IMHO jello inside.

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12-25-2006, 06:32 PM	#12
Alx User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, Tennessee area Posts: 263 Thanks: 5 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	The 3 (three) Houston, Texas stainless steel Lugers I had all were problematic. I think the main problem was soft metal, and lack of hardening where it was supposed to count. The guns can't hold precision and if they happen to wear evenly, will work for a time, but not long before they beat themselves up internally. Finish surfaces look overbuffed and wavy on every one of them I have ever seen, in person or in photos, and that includes about maybe 30 different ones. I hate them with passion now. If the one you have/had was able to shoot more than just a few rounds, it probably has beaten its malleable frame toggle ramps and has swollen metal on the sides there now. Any Genuine German shooter Luger can be re-barreled with an aftermarket or spare 6-inch barrel, labor cost me 120 USD, and the finish chemically stripped off to approximate a white metal gun, and you will have a well made, hard steel, precise shooting gun, with readily available replacement parts accessed via eBay, Sarco, or Numrich to name a few sources. Before: rust partially removed with wire brush, but pitting evident on side plate, trigger and nearby frame, and other places. After: rust removed with Naval Jelly, surface selectively filed to lessen appearance of pitting, finish completely stripped from exterior of gun... Keep it oiled/waxed, but then, what is going to hurt it anyway, a bit of surface rust. ? Hah !! This 1917 was a rusty mess, which I Navel Jelly treated, wire brushed, filed a bit on, and stripped the finish off, and had a new Bohler Stahl Austrian 6-inch barrel installedl. The only finish I have on it is a very thin mix of Birchwood Casey cold-blue mixed with mostly blue and rust remover, which prevented the gun from going back to black, keeping a very light gray tone instead. Pretty on the surface, from a distance, but IMHO jello inside.