"Help a new guy identify a Luger"

4bitdecoder · 12-12-2006, 09:40 PM

Hello:

New to Lugers, apologies in advance if I'm asking obvious questions here. Can anyone help me out with identifying this particular firearm? I've read the site a bit about what to check for, but short of saying that there's a little number "38" stamped all over the gun, I don't know what to look for.

Also, I took it apart but am not sure how to put it back together

Any ideas? If you need me to take more pictures I can get more.

Edward Tinker · 12-12-2006, 10:00 PM

Welcome to the forum! This is What is commonly called an American Eagle commercial luger, it appears the safety on the grip is stuck in?

What is the caliber? It should be either 9mm or 7.65mm (30 luger).

The 38's are the last two of the serial number.

Ed

c3006 · 12-12-2006, 10:09 PM

Welcome Might be a 1923 safe-loaded what does it say behind the safety? If it does not say safe it may be a 1923 american eagle if no grip saftey is present. On the links to the left under technical info there are good instructions to put it back together. The #sn would be helpfull. Whatever it is it looks like a nice pistol. clint

Dwight Gruber · 12-12-2006, 10:59 PM

John,

Ed pegged it as a 1906 American Eagle. The long, pencil-barrel identifies it as .30 Luger caliber.

The receiver is set back too far in the frame. This is most characteristic of the link from the rear toggle not being connected to the recoil spring lever, an easy mistake for someone not familiar with reassembly.

Also, the sideplate is not in place.

Following the reassembly instructions Clint pointed out should solve your problem--the grip safety will probably come back into position at the same time.

Looks like a very nice example. Knowing the serial number might give an idea when it was made.

--Dwight

4bitdecoder · 12-13-2006, 12:50 AM

Hey everyone:

Thanks for the responses. I've got some more pics that I took when I was able to (below). Thanks Clint for the link, I'll check it out and see if I can re-assemble. Maybe these will give more info. The S/N is 67038. I tried to photo any weird symbols I could on it, hence the first photo with the 70 and the squiggle/hook type thing above the "38" (int he photo).

Does anybody have any idea how much these typically go for in the resale market? Also, based on the below-average-quality pics, what type of condition it's in?

Some more pics:

Edward Tinker · 12-13-2006, 01:18 AM

I would venture low of $800 and high of $1800, in-between is usually where you find it. All depends on condition, matching parts, if ever reblued, etc.

ed

Dwight Gruber · 12-13-2006, 05:52 AM

John,

Thanks for the additoinal pics.

Your 1906AE was made sometime between 1909 and 1913, probably 1911-1912--its very difficult to date guns closer in this range. It is on record as having been in the US and sold April 1914 (Costanzo, World of Lugers vol. 1).

Letters and cryptic marks on the hidden surfaces of Lugers are known as workers' marks, probably inspection and acceptance marks made during manufacture.

Thats a -very- interesting holster you have with it. Are there any markings revealing who made it, where or when? You do understand that the gun should not be stored in it, else it deteriorates the gun's finish?

--Dwight

4bitdecoder · 12-13-2006, 01:02 PM

I took a look at the holster when I was photoing things and couldn't find any identifying marks on it. I'll have another look and take some additional photos when I have the chance.

Good to know about storing in the holster. Long story involved about how I stumbled upon this (it's actually not my gun) - a friend was showing me a number of shotguns he inherited from his uncle (I'm on a separate quest to figure out the specifics of those ones for him), and he pulls out this Luger which had been sitting in his closet for 15-20 years. I think he could hear my jaw hit the floor.

Anyway, I'll see if I can take some more photos of it, if it's of any interest.

4bitdecoder · 12-17-2006, 07:21 PM

Dwight:

I checked out the holster a bit more. I'm beginning to think it's not a Luger holster as the clasp on it won't close when the gun is in it...

tac:
I put the safety on for the photos in case there was anything special about it, so no worries about me breaking anything. Thanks for the info though, any recs on what type of oil to use?

blayne · 12-17-2006, 07:58 PM

Holster might be for a 38 special and/or a pistol like a huntsman.

Hoppes oil would work, as would breakfree, etc. Specifically use a gun oil. some like WD40 are not designed to oil as much as water displace (i.e. WD).

12-12-2006, 09:40 PM	#1
4bitdecoder New User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	"Help a new guy identify a Luger" Hello: New to Lugers, apologies in advance if I'm asking obvious questions here. Can anyone help me out with identifying this particular firearm? I've read the site a bit about what to check for, but short of saying that there's a little number "38" stamped all over the gun, I don't know what to look for. Also, I took it apart but am not sure how to put it back together Any ideas? If you need me to take more pictures I can get more.

12-12-2006, 10:09 PM	#3
c3006 User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: east tn Posts: 526 Thanks: 5 Thanked 12 Times in 5 Posts	Welcome Might be a 1923 safe-loaded what does it say behind the safety? If it does not say safe it may be a 1923 american eagle if no grip saftey is present. On the links to the left under technical info there are good instructions to put it back together. The #sn would be helpfull. Whatever it is it looks like a nice pistol. clint __________________ Men Accustomed unto thier arms and their liberties will never endure the yoke. James Harrington 1776

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12-12-2006, 10:00 PM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,966 Thanks: 2,066 Thanked 4,595 Times in 2,116 Posts	Welcome to the forum! This is What is commonly called an American Eagle commercial luger, it appears the safety on the grip is stuck in? What is the caliber? It should be either 9mm or 7.65mm (30 luger). The 38's are the last two of the serial number. Ed

12-12-2006, 10:59 PM	#4
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,908 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,330 Times in 435 Posts	John, Ed pegged it as a 1906 American Eagle. The long, pencil-barrel identifies it as .30 Luger caliber. The receiver is set back too far in the frame. This is most characteristic of the link from the rear toggle not being connected to the recoil spring lever, an easy mistake for someone not familiar with reassembly. Also, the sideplate is not in place. Following the reassembly instructions Clint pointed out should solve your problem--the grip safety will probably come back into position at the same time. Looks like a very nice example. Knowing the serial number might give an idea when it was made. --Dwight

12-13-2006, 12:50 AM	#5
4bitdecoder New User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hey everyone: Thanks for the responses. I've got some more pics that I took when I was able to (below). Thanks Clint for the link, I'll check it out and see if I can re-assemble. Maybe these will give more info. The S/N is 67038. I tried to photo any weird symbols I could on it, hence the first photo with the 70 and the squiggle/hook type thing above the "38" (int he photo). Does anybody have any idea how much these typically go for in the resale market? Also, based on the below-average-quality pics, what type of condition it's in? Some more pics:

12-13-2006, 01:18 AM	#6
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,966 Thanks: 2,066 Thanked 4,595 Times in 2,116 Posts	I would venture low of $800 and high of $1800, in-between is usually where you find it. All depends on condition, matching parts, if ever reblued, etc. ed

12-13-2006, 05:52 AM	#7
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,908 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,330 Times in 435 Posts	John, Thanks for the additoinal pics. Your 1906AE was made sometime between 1909 and 1913, probably 1911-1912--its very difficult to date guns closer in this range. It is on record as having been in the US and sold April 1914 (Costanzo, World of Lugers vol. 1). Letters and cryptic marks on the hidden surfaces of Lugers are known as workers' marks, probably inspection and acceptance marks made during manufacture. Thats a -very- interesting holster you have with it. Are there any markings revealing who made it, where or when? You do understand that the gun should not be stored in it, else it deteriorates the gun's finish? --Dwight

12-13-2006, 01:02 PM	#8
4bitdecoder New User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I took a look at the holster when I was photoing things and couldn't find any identifying marks on it. I'll have another look and take some additional photos when I have the chance. Good to know about storing in the holster. Long story involved about how I stumbled upon this (it's actually not my gun) - a friend was showing me a number of shotguns he inherited from his uncle (I'm on a separate quest to figure out the specifics of those ones for him), and he pulls out this Luger which had been sitting in his closet for 15-20 years. I think he could hear my jaw hit the floor. Anyway, I'll see if I can take some more photos of it, if it's of any interest.

12-17-2006, 07:21 PM	#9
4bitdecoder New User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Dwight: I checked out the holster a bit more. I'm beginning to think it's not a Luger holster as the clasp on it won't close when the gun is in it... tac: I put the safety on for the photos in case there was anything special about it, so no worries about me breaking anything. Thanks for the info though, any recs on what type of oil to use?

12-17-2006, 07:58 PM	#10
blayne User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 34 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Holster might be for a 38 special and/or a pistol like a huntsman. Hoppes oil would work, as would breakfree, etc. Specifically use a gun oil. some like WD40 are not designed to oil as much as water displace (i.e. WD).