Toggle crack

ithacaartist · 03-04-2012, 09:03 PM

George,
It's not a big problem, though a little involved, to remove the rear link from the toggle train. The pin on which the links pivot is held in by a retaining pin. This pin is visible in your pic of the crack. Its end is the little dot on top of the left toggle grip/knob. One would carefully tap the retaining pin out until it ceases to hold in the linkage pin, which is then removed laterally to release the parts from the joint. Soak for as long as possible in penetrant (these parts may not have been removed for 90+ years!), use punches that fit and do not mar, and clamp the work in a padded vise--again, so as not to mar any finish.
Using a stand-in link for shooting should be OK, but you may have to go thru the above process repeatedly, unless you leave the alternate in place indefinitely. Otherwise it's in for shooting, out for storage/show, etc.

03-04-2012, 09:03 PM	#21
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,377 Thanks: 7,452 Thanked 2,613 Times in 1,380 Posts	George, It's not a big problem, though a little involved, to remove the rear link from the toggle train. The pin on which the links pivot is held in by a retaining pin. This pin is visible in your pic of the crack. Its end is the little dot on top of the left toggle grip/knob. One would carefully tap the retaining pin out until it ceases to hold in the linkage pin, which is then removed laterally to release the parts from the joint. Soak for as long as possible in penetrant (these parts may not have been removed for 90+ years!), use punches that fit and do not mar, and clamp the work in a padded vise--again, so as not to mar any finish. Using a stand-in link for shooting should be OK, but you may have to go thru the above process repeatedly, unless you leave the alternate in place indefinitely. Otherwise it's in for shooting, out for storage/show, etc.