Info on Luger I may purchase??

[Mark F. David]

I am looking to buy my first Luger, and looked at one today. Since there are so many variations, and I am completely ignorant of all the things that I should look for, I decided to ask you experts to check my research (most of it done on this website).

Looking at the top of the pistol, there is a "G" near the barrel, a "93" (the last two digits of the s/n), then an "S/42" and another "93".

Looking at the left side of the pistol, the s/n is listed as 4x93, and all of the visible numbers are matching "93"s except for the sideplate, which has a "34" on it.

Looking at the right side of the pistol, there are three proof marks that match set 45 on the proof marks section of this website.

Looking at the underside of the pistol, on the top of the triggerguard is a cursive "B", or Greek Beta.

Also on the underside of the pistol, on the barrel is another full serial number, then closer to the trigger guard is "8+82"

So, from research on the above listed markings, I have concluded that this pistol is a "G-date", commercial contract pistol made by Mauser in 1935 - Right???

The bore looks very good, and the overall condition of the pistol is, I would say, about 95%.

All the numbers I saw matched except the sideplate, and of course, the magazine, which I understand hardly ever has a matching serial number.

The blueing looks even, the "strawing" is faded but still yellow, and the wooden grips are in nice shape.

My Bluebook (22nd edition) places the value at $900. I assume that would be for a pistol with all matching numbers except the magazine, though.

Does the relatively low serial number add anything to the value?

I guess my main question to you guys (other than confirmation that I did my research correctly), is how much should I deduct for the non-matching sideplate serial number.

Any ideas as to what the greek Beta character is on the top of the trigger guard? - some kind of import mark maybe?

Any ideas as to what the "8+82" marking means?

Also, is there a forum set up for people to "swap" sideplates to at least get them to match numerically, even though it would be highly unlikely that the swapped sideplates would be from the original pistol(s).

Thanks in advance for any advice you folks can give me!

The guy offering the pistol to me for sale is a friend, so I don't want to rip him off, but I don't want to over-pay either.

-mark-
mfdavid@comcast.net