Pocket Pistols?

[Maestro]

Does anyone have any experience, comments or suggestions regarding .25 C&R pocket pistols?
Any recommendations?
I'm thinking of starting to collect a few!! thank you in advance.

[Maestro]

this is a nice Armi Galesi Besca Brevetto cal 6.35 25 acp

[CAP Black]

I have a Colt 25 cal. that is a nice little gun and functions very well after my gunsmith undone some previous bad work on it for a previous owner.

[Maestro]

i started reading this book.. if there's others please chime in!!

Well written and researched, "The Genesis of the Pocket Auto Pistol" is the exhaustive history of the development of pocket pistols. Covers a plethora of obscure designs from the late 19th century and early 20th century. This book reviews the Colt, Browning, Savage, Walther, Sauer and less famous but interesting American and European gun designs. Fun to read as well as educational, this book takes the reader all over the world, through the decades of war and peace and up to the pocket pistols of today, made through the use of CAD/CAM with space age materials and 3D printers. There are 300 pages and this book is loaded with high quality color photographs. Authored by Dr. Steven King, Phd in Gunocology, all-around good guy, serious collector of pocket pistols,early cartridge revolvers,Savage pistols and Smith & Wesson guns.

[Maestro]

I also bought this one.. not that great, but good reading.

"Pocket pistols" are small, easily concealed, inexpensive semiauto handguns in .22, .25, .32 and .380 calibers. Though often maligned as too puny for serious self-defense, millions of Americans carry these guns and have used them successfully to stop violent assaults. Why are they considered excellent self-defense weapons? Their small size and hammerless design enable them to be easily concealed and carried so they are immediately accessible in an emergency, putting firepower instantly in your hands when it's needed most. This practical book cuts right to the chase and recommends the best pistols on the market today as well as the best ammunition for them. It then gets into the real-world issues of how to carry a concealed pocket pistol, how to shoot it under stress and how to deal with malfunctions quickly and efficiently.

[wlyon]

I also collect pocket pistols. Go on line and there is a wealth of info on these. Look for the older models. Colt, Walthers, Mauser. Haenel, Ortgies, Browning.Bayard.Frommer, Beretta , etc. Avoid most of the modern junk. Much of which is in your second book. Also fun to look for original holsters. Interesting little guns. Bill

[Maestro]

this is my 1st holster.. although for 32 acp colt 1903.

[spartacus38]

I like the 1910/1934 Mauser pocket pistol in 25 caliber.Well made,good shooter.
Only 26,000 made in 2 variations.
Also Walther Model 8.
Spartacus38@charter.net
Bob Young

[alvin]

Played a few .25ACP. The most comfortable one to hold and shoot is Mauser 1910, but its size is not tiny... it's more like a 7,65mm pistol with 6,35mm caliber.

On tiny vest pocket pistol, the only one that I can comfortably hold and shoot is Mauser WTP I (note: WTP I only. Not WTP II). I also played Browning 1905/06, it functions well, but holding and shooting is definitely not as comfortable as WTP I.

[mrerick]

There was a great deal of competition in this market segment just after the turn of the 20th century. Many of the firearm manufacturers came up with quite a variety of designs.

The very early Browning designs like the FN / Colt from 1905 and the Mauser WTP-I and WTP-II were direct blowback. Along came Josef Nickl with one of the more innovative designs in his M1910 / M1914 / M1934 family. These are fascinating well-made precision handguns.

It might be interesting to try and obtain examples of each of the basic early designs.




Marc

[wlyon]

Darius
Where did you find the Genesis book? Can not locate it on Amazon. Thanks Bill

[Olle]

I'm not really looking actively for .25s, but I know that they are really difficult to find in good condition. Most of them were "used as intended", and have spent their life rattling around in a pocket, glove box etc together with other items. Another thing I have noticed is that older .25s usually have pitted barrels, you rarely find one with a good bore. All this considered, pocket 25s are probably more difficult to collect than most other guns. It might even be easier to find an excellent Luger than an excellent pocket .25, at least if you're talking WWII and back.

I don't really collect them, but if I find a nice one I usually pick it up anyway. Here's one of the favorites in my collection, how can you possibly resist something like this?

[Vlim]

I like the Mauser pockets. Here is a WTP 2 with a magazine blank.

[Maestro]

Originally Posted by wlyon

Darius
Where did you find the Genesis book? Can not locate it on Amazon. Thanks Bill

it was hard to find one Bill, but I found 2 places! I bought mine from NE Guns and Parts (Contact Name: Steve Dahl; HOPEDALE, MA; Daytime Phone: 508-381-0234; Evening / Other Phone: 508-381-0230; Fax Number: 508-381-0236; email: neballistic@gmail.com) for $54 shipped. The other is still on Guns International.com for $59.95 shipped http://www.gunsinternational.com/gun...n_id=100610081

[Maestro]

Originally Posted by spartacus38

I like the 1910/1934 Mauser pocket pistol in 25 caliber.Well made,good shooter.
Only 26,000 made in 2 variations.
Also Walther Model 8.
Spartacus38@charter.net
Bob Young

holy cow!!! I had no idea there are so many Mauser 1910/34 variations & "sub-variations"!! http://www.ai4fr.com/main/page_milit...user_1914.html

The date of manufacture and the serial number ranges found below are credited to John LaCroix’s excellent AutoMag articles.

1910 Sidelatch, this variation was manufactured between 1910 to 1913 with a serial number range of 1 to 61000. This version is appropriately named due to the latch in the left side plate. The early versions are found with a smaller diameter safety release. This model is found with 2 different slide markings.

Humpback, this variation is very rare and was manufactured between 1912 to 1913 with a serial number range of 1 to 2800. This model is referred to as the humpback version due to a hump at the top of the slide. This model is found with many variations and slight changes to the smaller parts, but all will have a hump on the slide. The early models have a 3 line slide marking while later models have a 2 line stamping. Some collectors consider this version a prototype.

1914 model, this variation was manufactured between 1913 to 1914 with a serial number range between 2801 to13500. This variation will be found with a 2 line slide marking.

1910/14 model, this variation was manufactured between 1914 to 1921 with a serial number range between 61000 to 221800. This variation has no latch in the side plate and will be found with 9 slide serrations on each side of the slide.

1914 model, this variation was manufactured between 1914 to 1923 with a serial number range between 13500 to 296000. This variation will be found with a single line slide stamping on the left side. Late models will not have the Mauser Banner on the left side plate. Some time around serial number 162,500 the right side of the slide is stamped “Mauser 7.65”. Around serial number 277,000 the milled panel on the frame was discontinued.

1910/14 model, this variation was manufactured between 1921 to 1928 with a serial number range between 221800 to 345000. This version will be found with 7 slide serrations on each side of the slide.

1914 model, this variation was manufactured between 1923 to 1929 with a serial number range between 277000 to 460000. This variation will be found with a 2 line left slide stamping. The 1914 post war model is the most often encountered. It is this version that is pictured on this web page.

1914/34 model, this variation was manufactured between 1929 to 1933, with a serial number range between 460000 to 526000. This variation will have a single line left side slide marking and a straight grip. Late models will be found with a slot cut into the forward part of the slide containing the serial number. The smaller parts are finished with a potassium nitrate(saltpeter) or hot bluing process. In this hot bluing process, as the temperature is brought up, the surface turns a straw color which proceeds to blue and then to black. If it is stopped at the blue stage, the color will be a gorgeous deep royal blue not achievable any other way. Very expensive custom guns are often found blued this way.

1910/34 model, this variation was manufactured between 1928 to 1936 with a serial number range between 345000 to 403300. This variation is found with a strait grip and a single line left side slide marking. The finish is a cold blue with the smaller parts being finished in a potassium nitrate(saltpeter) or hot bluing process as described above.

1934 model, this variation was manufactured between 1933 to 1941 with a serial number range between 498250 to 617000. This variation will have a curved grip and a single line left side slide marking. The model is finished with a hot bluing process.

1910/34 model, this variation was manufactured between 1936 to 1941, with a serial number range between 403300 to 429000. This variation will have a curved grip and the only serial number showing will be on the slide. Late models will be found with a slot cut into the forward part of the slide containing the serial number.

For pictures of many of the different models, please see http://www.mauserguns.com/

[Pistole+Parabellum]

Maestro did you get the Armi Galesi Besca Brevetto? I found one for $680 http://www.gunsinternational.com/gun...n_id=100632536 Cody