Stock finishing.

CAP Black · 12-26-2012, 09:14 PM

Appreciate ideas on dressing up the finish on a gun stock done with True Oil. Have a few rough spots. Will 0000 steel wool help to relieve any rough areas? Perhaps prep for another coat? I don't really need another coating.
Jack

CAP Black · 12-26-2012, 10:18 PM

Thanks but I am working on True Oil.

Note: This comment was added as a response to hint from someone that has since been eliminated.

G.T. · 12-26-2012, 11:49 PM

Hi Capt black... Oooppps! Almost forgot, first, you need to strip with lacquer thinner and sand to perfection with 220 or 320... You want to put on the Tru-Oil with very light coats, with a lot of wiping, rubbing down, etc.. to heat the finish and cause it to blend with previous coats..Some use old nylon stockings.. many of the high end satin finishes are Tru-Oil applied WITH 0000 steel wool or 400 wet or dry...rub til it tacks... stop and wait... repeat... as many times as necessary... Tru oil does not hide blems! You get back exactly what you put in... A good rule of thumb is to apply it lightly and then try to rub it all back off... it tacks pretty quick... Good luck, best to you, til...lat'r...GT....

CAP Black · 12-28-2012, 12:51 PM

It was too shiny and I wanted to tone it down some. I used bronze wool with some oil. The bronze made more than just a roughing up of the finish- it made deep marks which I have really had to work to recover from. OOOO steel wool would have been better, I think. It's coming around, just a lot more rubbing and polishing than I wanted to do.
Jack

sheepherder · 12-28-2012, 02:28 PM

I deleted my post because it was concerned with BLO, not Tru-Oil...

A problem with any steel wool is the steel filings it leaves behind...They can be a PITA to remove...

G.T. · 12-30-2012, 09:36 AM

A big misnomer is that finish will sometimes hide poor prep work... ??.... Not very often, or more likely never... Maybe only in Red Barn paint... Also, it doesn't turn bland, bad soft punky wood into exhibition walnut! But, when applied correctly, it will make what ever you start with look some better... And with a lot of effort and energy spent, sometime spectacular results can be realized. Often more luck than skill... Also, when applying finish, sometimes less is more... Use finish sparingly.. develop a system that achieves the results your looking for, yes, trial and error, finish & strip, again, and again, etc... Probably the very best results can be had using just small amounts of finish and 400 wet or dry sandpaper in a small orbital pattern.. in order to fill the grain with finish and micro saw dust residue, also 400 is about the limit for satin...600 gets into high polish territory.. or spotty areas because of wood density or grain difference. But, the bottom line, is a "wonder how he did that" stock finish is a lot of work, and not worth it unless the quality of the wood warrants such effort... Ooooorrrrrr, Sand it bare, with the grain with 220, Spray lacquer, DEFT is great, OOOO steel wool buff, and a finish cote of Tru-oil will get you there cheap and fast ... "Nothing is ever as it seems!"

best to all, til....lat'r....GT

12-26-2012, 09:14 PM	#1
CAP Black User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fairmont, WV Right here in Mountaineer country and God's country Posts: 767 Thanks: 100 Thanked 174 Times in 96 Posts	Stock finishing. Appreciate ideas on dressing up the finish on a gun stock done with True Oil. Have a few rough spots. Will 0000 steel wool help to relieve any rough areas? Perhaps prep for another coat? I don't really need another coating. Jack

12-26-2012, 10:18 PM	#2
CAP Black User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fairmont, WV Right here in Mountaineer country and God's country Posts: 767 Thanks: 100 Thanked 174 Times in 96 Posts	I am where I am. Thanks but I am working on True Oil. Note: This comment was added as a response to hint from someone that has since been eliminated. Last edited by CAP Black; 12-27-2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: to add a note.

12-26-2012, 11:49 PM	#3
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,528 Thanks: 1,334 Thanked 3,711 Times in 1,014 Posts	penatration, not build up.... Hi Capt black... Oooppps! Almost forgot, first, you need to strip with lacquer thinner and sand to perfection with 220 or 320... You want to put on the Tru-Oil with very light coats, with a lot of wiping, rubbing down, etc.. to heat the finish and cause it to blend with previous coats..Some use old nylon stockings.. many of the high end satin finishes are Tru-Oil applied WITH 0000 steel wool or 400 wet or dry...rub til it tacks... stop and wait... repeat... as many times as necessary... Tru oil does not hide blems! You get back exactly what you put in... A good rule of thumb is to apply it lightly and then try to rub it all back off... it tacks pretty quick... Good luck, best to you, til...lat'r...GT....

12-28-2012, 12:51 PM	#4
CAP Black User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fairmont, WV Right here in Mountaineer country and God's country Posts: 767 Thanks: 100 Thanked 174 Times in 96 Posts	used some bronze wool It was too shiny and I wanted to tone it down some. I used bronze wool with some oil. The bronze made more than just a roughing up of the finish- it made deep marks which I have really had to work to recover from. OOOO steel wool would have been better, I think. It's coming around, just a lot more rubbing and polishing than I wanted to do. Jack

12-28-2012, 02:28 PM	#5
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,197 Thanks: 1,416 Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts	I deleted my post because it was concerned with BLO, not Tru-Oil... A problem with any steel wool is the steel filings it leaves behind...They can be a PITA to remove... __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

12-30-2012, 09:36 AM	#6
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,528 Thanks: 1,334 Thanked 3,711 Times in 1,014 Posts	steel wool.... A big misnomer is that finish will sometimes hide poor prep work... ??.... Not very often, or more likely never... Maybe only in Red Barn paint... Also, it doesn't turn bland, bad soft punky wood into exhibition walnut! But, when applied correctly, it will make what ever you start with look some better... And with a lot of effort and energy spent, sometime spectacular results can be realized. Often more luck than skill... Also, when applying finish, sometimes less is more... Use finish sparingly.. develop a system that achieves the results your looking for, yes, trial and error, finish & strip, again, and again, etc... Probably the very best results can be had using just small amounts of finish and 400 wet or dry sandpaper in a small orbital pattern.. in order to fill the grain with finish and micro saw dust residue, also 400 is about the limit for satin...600 gets into high polish territory.. or spotty areas because of wood density or grain difference. But, the bottom line, is a "wonder how he did that" stock finish is a lot of work, and not worth it unless the quality of the wood warrants such effort... Ooooorrrrrr, Sand it bare, with the grain with 220, Spray lacquer, DEFT is great, OOOO steel wool buff, and a finish cote of Tru-oil will get you there cheap and fast ... "Nothing is ever as it seems!" best to all, til....lat'r....GT