This is my first luger 1912..with questions

[hrbla]

I cleaned, lubed, and took pictures to post it here. My first luger has a serial no. of 7124 with non-matching byf-29 bolt and toggle and a 932 magazine. Before proceeding further on restoration, I would like to how far should I (or could I) go. I have narrowed my thoughts into following questions and am very appreciated for your responses:

(1)Is this a DWM or Erfurt luger? I can not tell from the maker stamp.
(2) Is it realistically possible to can find a bolt and toggle marked "24" and DWM/Erfurt logo to match the pistol?
(3) For a magazine butt to match this pistol, should it be made of wood? or the currnet aluminum one is close enought.
(4) Is the finish on the pistol good to keep? or a re-blue is recommanded?
(5) Even the dealer test fired the pistol (for unknown rounds) and ended up ok, is it safe to fire non-matching luger since the luger was hand-fitted and numbered accordingly.

[alanint]

You have what appears to be an Erfurt Luger with a Mauser BYF toggle. Some photos of the serial number on the front of the frame and trigger guard would help.
There is active rust in the checkering of your magazine release and takedown lever. I would get a brass brush in there and then oil as soon as you can.

[phatrick88]

The finish looks great, leave it as is. With that said, it will always be a shooter grade gun due to the mismatch parts. It's possible to find a matching part, but the gun would still be force matched. The correct mag for a 1912 Erfurt would have a wood base. Mismatch guns make fine shooters, plunk away and enjoy.

[FNorm]

I agree with all the above. Mostly Erfurt with a byf toggle train. Probably not worth the $$ to refinish/restore as it's not bad as it is. Get that active rust and enjoy some shooting.

FN

[hrbla]

For selective areas, I am planning on DIY metal work to lighten the surface pitting and rust blue it after that. Several thoughts rised up while deciding the course of actions as following which really appreciated for your experience inputs:

1. Is it ok (in terms of shooting safety) to rust blue inside the barrel? Will it help to lighten the pittings at the grooves and lands and improve accuracy?
2. For partially rust blue on areas, would you recommand to remove all the original blue before applying the new? or just leave the old and let new/old to mix/overlapping?
3. For trigger and several others, I been told that they were surface hardened steel (no blue) and patina formed on the surfaces throughout the years. Would you suggest a way (I like anlanint's idea on brass brush for rust, but is aggresive) to clean them without removing the patina?
4. I wonder if any fellow collector here might have a "byf' luger with Erfurt toggle train. We may exchange to make both satisfied. To this proposal, where would you suggest me to post?

Thank you in adance for inputs!

[whcoyote]

Originally Posted by hrbla

I cleaned, lubed, and took pictures to post it here. My first luger has a serial no. of 7124 with non-matching byf-29 bolt and toggle and a 932 magazine. Before proceeding further on restoration, I would like to how far should I (or could I) go. I have narrowed my thoughts into following questions and am very appreciated for your responses:

(1)Is this a DWM or Erfurt luger? I can not tell from the maker stamp.
A: It's an Erfurt
(2) Is it realistically possible to can find a bolt and toggle marked "24" and DWM/Erfurt logo to match the pistol?
A: Possible - contact Tom Heller in St. Charles, MO or Phil Siaccacio in Afton, VA
(3) For a magazine butt to match this pistol, should it be made of wood? or the currnet aluminum one is close enought.
A: Magazine bottom would be wood. Just buy a WWI mag. Mismatched numbers on mags are a routine thing for WWI Lugers.
(4) Is the finish on the pistol good to keep? or a re-blue is recommanded?
A: Never reblue a Luger that has the potential of being restored
(5) Even the dealer test fired the pistol (for unknown rounds) and ended up ok, is it safe to fire non-matching luger since the luger was hand-fitted and numbered accordingly.

A: Make your dealer guarantee you that the headspace is correct and use only good quality factory loads in the pistol.

[whcoyote]

Originally Posted by hrbla

For selective areas, I am planning on DIY metal work to lighten the surface pitting and rust blue it after that. Several thoughts rised up while deciding the course of actions as following which really appreciated for your experience inputs:
A: Do not refinish this pistol. It is fine as is. Refinishing only devalues it more.

1. Is it ok (in terms of shooting safety) to rust blue inside the barrel? Will it help to lighten the pittings at the grooves and lands and improve accuracy?
A: Don;t reblue it. But if you absoluetly have to, common practice of a good gunsmith is to plug the barrel while rebluing - so the inside won't get reblued.
2. For partially rust blue on areas, would you recommand to remove all the original blue before applying the new? or just leave the old and let new/old to mix/overlapping?
A; You have to remove all the old blue first
3. For trigger and several others, I been told that they were surface hardened steel (no blue) and patina formed on the surfaces throughout the years. Would you suggest a way (I like anlanint's idea on brass brush for rust, but is aggresive) to clean them without removing the patina?
A: Clean these areas with solvent and relubricate them. Patins hurts nothing.
4. I wonder if any fellow collector here might have a "byf' luger with Erfurt toggle train. We may exchange to make both satisfied. To this proposal, where would you suggest me to post?

Thank you in adance for inputs!

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