Grandfathers Luger

[rpm429]

Hello,

I was just given my grandfathers Luger, and was interested in the history behind it. I used the technical information link and it appears to have the DWM military Proofs. On the top of the weapon it has 1918 stamped. Does this indicate the Year of production? The serial number is 313 and there are 13s' on all the other parts. However the Magazine does not match. The Weapon has no visable rust, but the strawing has faded some. The grips are dark outside but lighter on the back. I have no interest in selling this weapon. I am however interested in what I should do to show the proper respect to it? It was not touched for decades, It remained on a closet shelf in the hard case leather holster. The holster is also in very good condition and has a very small German eagle with swastika stamped on the backside.

Thanks,

[alanint]

Hi Thomas,

Welcome to the forum! You have a World War 1 DWM Luger manufactured in 1918. Does the serial number on the pistol's frame just below the barrel have a small letter underneath it? This would help better identify when it was made.
Detailed photos are a must to further identify your Grandad's heirloom. Take close up photos of all markings as well as the overall pistol and holster images and post them here so that memberts can further help you.

[Douglas Jr.]

Welcome to the forum!
In addition to Alan's great advices, I strongly recommend to do not store the gun inside the holster, as the leather usually retains moiSture that can hurt the pistol finish, decreasing its value.

For disassembly, youtube has several videos teaching how to do it.
Here is a couple:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LMPyQoHQzs (the interesting part begins at 3:25)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3YEy-6qcE

And congratualtions for your decision to keep your granpa's heirloom in the family. Unfortunately, most of the people don't care.

All the best,

Douglas.

[rpm429]

Thanks, I will take pictures soon and post

[rpm429]

sorry, These are the best I could do with a cell phone camera.

[mrerick]

Hi Thomas, and welcome to the forum.

You have a WW-I vintage Luger made by DWM in Berlin.

It looks to be in good condition and in it's original finish. It is a collectable Luger if all of the numbered parts match the serial number. The pictures are just indistinct enough that I cannot make out the suffix letter. If it's a "h" your Luger's serial number is "313h".

Your holster was made by Karl Bocker and is WW-II vintage. Again, I can't quite make out the year. Is it "1939"?

It is best not to store your Luger in it's holster. There are acids used in the tanning process that can leave the leather in a state that it will damage the Rust Blued finish of your pistol. Keep it separately, perhaps in a zipper case or silicone impregnated sock.

It is best not to consider firing your pistol. This is because of the potential for loss of history and value should you break a matching numbered part. We regularly get reports of this kind of damage when firing one of these veterans.

If you remove the grips, use great care when removing the left side one. Especially near the safety lever. You just slightly lift the end of the grip near the screw hole (after removing the screw) and then slide the grip out from the top of the frame.

Marc

[rpm429]

Thanks everyone for the replies. It is 1939 on the holster, and it is an "h" below the 313. All the parts have 313 or 13 on them, except the mag which has a wood bottom and "1265" stamped on it.

[rpm429]

What were the typical 9mm loads back in 1918? I suspect todays 9mm ammo is more powerful with evolution of powder technology +p etc..., but I dont know.

[Terry Tiell]

White box Winchester found at Walmart works well.

[RC20]

What were the typical 9mm loads back in 1918? I suspect todays 9mm ammo is more powerful with evolution of powder technology +p etc..., but I dont know.

I would put a hard stop on any shooting the gun per what mrerick (Marc) until you get your full information.

A few posts down there is an Erfort that had the breach block fail.

I stumbled into a similar Luger recently thinking I had a modest investment and one I could shoot.

The members were kind enough (and care about preserving these historic guns) that they strongly urged me not to shoot it. I was smart enough to put shooting it on hold though I was still thinking about shooting it. I then processed what they were telling me.

If one of the numbered parts breaks (and they can per the Luger experts) then the guns value can drop from something ballpark of $2000-2500, to $700.

You simply cannot replace the numbered parts. They are all hand fitted and numbered and that is the collector value in the gun.

I did the right thing and did not shoot mine, did the value research and gave the groups recommendation its full measure of respect and consideration and decided mine will never be shot. Yes I am disappointed as I always wanted to shoot one, but mine like yours had a lot more value than I realized and it could be gone in a heartbeat. Also would be gone a true historic gun that has survived 100 years intact.

Yours is also very rare in that the left grip panel has not been taken off wrong and broken off the section under the safety. Be extremely careful if you remove it per the above. They can be repaired but far more better not to break it off.

Its a great looking gun.

[rpm429]

Now ya'll have me looking for a shooter to buy, because I have the luger bug. My .50AE is to exspesive to shoot all the time, and my .45acp is nothing special. I was just curious if the newer ammo may be a contributing factor to breakage in the lugers Ive seen in the forum. Metal doesn't tend to get weaker over just time, unless their is another factor such as stress corrosion cracking (rust), cyclic fatigue, heat damage etc...

[CAP Black]

But what you don't know is which of the factors you mention has your gun already been subjected to before you acquired and then you do just one little thing and OOPs, she is broken... and you didn't think that should have happened.
Jack

[uscavman]

I have an excellent shape DWM wood bottom nickel mag that is numbered 313h with a plus sign if you are interested in working out a trade. I sent a pm. Phil

[Sergio Natali]

First of all welcome to this forum, there is not much to add that hasn't been already said.
I think you have a great looking Luger, and as a "Luger fanatic" I love to see that there are still people like you that prefer to keep granfather's memories in the family, unfortunately many others don't care and prefer to get in touch with this forum only to ask "how much is it worth".

[John Sabato]

uscavman

A generous gesture and offer indeed... and with the exception of the "+" sign, it would appear that the magazine offered might once again be reunited with the gun it left the factory with... but unless I am mistaken (it happens!) the "+" sign on the magazine indicates that it is from a Police issued Luger and not a Military Luger... and unfortunately, the photos do not indicate that this is a Police luger... There is no evidence of a sear safety ever being installed.

If anyone knows better, please comment and correct my assertion... or if I am correct, please validate it.

[ithacaartist]

John,

I was under the impression that it was the other way 'round--police mags are numbered, 1, 2, etc.; military, first mag just # and proof, 2nd mag adds one +, third, ++.

Looks like we have to wait for a tie-breaker?

D.P.

[lugerholsterrepair]

OK here it is..the + is Military indicating an "extra" magazine. 1-2-3- indicates an extra mag for a Police pistol.

[Tony Min]

So there is a chance this is the actual magazine. Depending on how many suffixes were used.

[Geo99]

Originally Posted by uscavman

I have an excellent shape DWM wood bottom nickel mag that is numbered 313h with a plus sign if you are interested in working out a trade. I sent a pm. Phil

Thomas - you really need to take Phil up on his offer immediately, (if you haven't already), then you will have a $2000 Luger.
This is a rare opportunity that almost never happens!

Although it is nice, your gun is not worth near that without the matching numbered magazine.

Also it's a little hard to tell from the glare, but your straw does not look all that faded to me, esp. in the picture of the right side.

Nice 1918!

- Geo

[Geo99]

Thomas,

Are the grips numbered '13' inside?
You should only take the right one off to look inside until you are sure you know what you are doing.

- Geo