Regarding Virtue

[cadads/42]

I think the question posed was premature. As a newbie I've just recently upgraded from a shooter to colletable. I purchased A nice matching 1938 S/42 at about. The gun I don't think had been cleaned by the vet who brouht it back. After cleaning I see that the bore on the gun has very strong bright rifling, but has light frosting throughout and was kind of dissapointed (probably a reflection of all my modern firearms and what I'm used to seeing) I've searched the old boards and found some great info on bore grading which lends me to believe that this bore doesn't really fall into pitted, but frosted(light pitting). From what I'm reading this would be considered "very good to excellent?" I think I've also learned that "mirror" bores like what I see on newer firearms are the exception. Anyway I welcome and value your comments to this newbie.

[Doug G.]

If your bore is lightly frosted you can remove this by "fire lapping". This is a process where you fire bullets coated with an abrasive in four stages from course to fine. I have removed frosting in this manner, but it takes about 200 rounds to do it.

[cadads/42]

Doug-
I thought fire lapping might be a possibility. Do you have a source for the abrasives?

Thanx - Mark

[Stu]

Hi Mark, if it's really 'collector' grade you might just want to leave things as they are; frosting won't affect accuracy much if you want to shoot it,(and if it is collector grade you surely won't do to much of that).

Remember that to try to polish the bore using abrasive coated bullets you'll be removing metal. I'd be surprised if you get to the 'mirror' bore stage without noticeable erosion of the lands ?

Would this count as restoration if the gun is currently all original ?

[Doug G.]

Mark & Stu I would not hesitate to do it to a collector grade Luger at all. You can get the kits from Brownell's . You load these very light so the bullet just exits the barrel. True it does remove metal, basically it accelerates wear. However it has been proven to increase accuracy and makes cleaning the barrel much easier. I would guess on a lightly frosted bore you might remove about .001". Not a lot, but makes a big difference.

[Doubs]

Just a suggestion, but before I tried fire-lapping, I'd use "J-B Bore Bright". It is also available from Brownells. A worn bronze brush is used with a patch wrapped around it. The Bore Bright is applied to the patch and then inserted from the chamber end. It'll be a tight fit in the bore. A total of 40 - 60 strokes are made. The results are about what you'd get from lapping. I'm completely sold on the stuff.

[lugerholsterrepair]

I have taken the same approach but chucked the cleaning rod in a variable speed drill at slow speed. It goes pretty fast then! Jerry Burney

[Doubs]

[quote]Originally posted by lugerholsterrepair:
<strong>I have taken the same approach but chucked the cleaning rod in a variable speed drill at slow speed. It goes pretty fast then! Jerry Burney</strong><hr></blockquote>

Interesting approach! Do you use Bore Bright too?

Jerry, did you get the pictures of the holsters I sent? Haven't heard anything in the week since I sent them. The private email I sent asking the same question hasn't been read according to my profile.

[wterrell]

lugerholsterrepair,

I will be shipping a leather sewing machine to you as soon as you provide me with a shipping address.

[Pete Ebbink]

General questions for all :

1. If a luger is collectible, would an Owner's attempt to brighten up the bore be a 'good thing" ?...from a collector's point of view ?

2. I have a 1918 DWM artillery that has the typical dark, pitted bore but still has very good lands & grooves. I have been told by many this is typical on arty's and should be left alone. Most future buyer's would want to see this bore condition...What say the experts ?

3. Finally, would bore brightening be an activity that some here on the Forum woud call "boosting" ?

Thanks for your opinions and advice...

Pete... <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

[wterrell]

Pete,

Removal of offal in the bore is perfectly legitimate. It did not come from the factory. Removal of .001 of metal is quite different. That would be changing the condition of the pistol.
Honing of the bore is the same as reboring or reaming. It removes metal.
The bore should be cleaned but not restored.
Some like cleaned grips and others like the patina of age (oil & dirt). That is another question.

[Dwight Gruber]

[quote]Originally posted by Wm. Pete Ebbink:
<strong>General questions for all :

3. Finally, would bore brightening be an activity that some here on the Forum woud call "boosting" ?

</strong><hr></blockquote>

"Boosting" seems to be a bit harsh and perjoritive for this practice. Honing the bore would seem to be a legitimate part of protecting and preserving an older gun, and returning its accuracy. This can be done in all innocence and with the best of intention.

However, one of the benchmarks to the value of a Luger is its bore condition. If a bore has been lappped, it no longer shares the condition of the rest of the gun, is no longer "original". As with all modification to a Luger, even if it is made very clear to a potential purchaser that this has been done, eventually the story will separate from the gun and its value will have been artificially and permanantly enhanced.

--Dwight

[crgkstnr]

Pete, I'm not an expert but have an opinion.

1 The shooter or collector has nothing to gain shining up a pitted and/or dark bore. The shine would come by removing metal from the bore, hastening barrel wear which is not beneficial for a shooter. For the collector, he's removing history.
2 If it were my artillery I would shoot it (depending on value) and clean it with a bronze bore brush and call it good enough.
3 I suppose some might call it boosting, depending on why it was done.

It's human to want to "improve" things, but there are times when it's wise to leave something alone.
I have to remind myself of this. No luger person will fault one for leaving the bore as is. Leave the shining to Bubba.
Craig

[lugerholsterrepair]

Daubs, I apologize for not getting back to you. I wasn't sure what you wanted exactly. I will review your Email and get right back to you. My excuse is I have been at my bench quite a bit with repairs and finishing up my pigskin Navy project. No excuse really but the best I could come up with on short notice.

Wes, Thank you for your more than generous offer of a leather sewing machine. This is magnanimous beyond words but that has never stopped me before. I really cannot accept such a gift but I want you to know how much the offer means to me. I do thank you for thinking of me. Warm Regards, Jerry

[Doubs]

[quote]Originally posted by lugerholsterrepair:
<strong>Daubs, I apologize for not getting back to you. I wasn't sure what you wanted exactly. I will review your Email and get right back to you. My excuse is I have been at my bench quite a bit with repairs and finishing up my pigskin Navy project.&lt;Snip&gt; Warm Regards, Jerry</strong><hr></blockquote>

Jerry, no apology necessary. My fear was that somehow the pictures had failed to make it to you. Sometimes e-mail spins off into cyber-space and disappears without a trace. I also know how valuable and short time can be.... especially when you have a project going. Thank you for the feedback via e-mail and I truly do appreciate your thoughts and evaluations. Thanks again. Doubs