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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Merritt Island, Fl
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When I ordered the new springs for my Nambu, I also ordered a new recoil spring for the Luger. I put it in tonite, using a hybrid approach of Thor's instructions, a YouTube video I found, and my own improvisation. My addition to the technique was to temporarily insert a spacer at the bottom of the spring to hold the hook up so I could hook it onto the do-dah that it hooks to - as I didn't have gravity assisting me as in Thor's technique. No underbench to work with.
In any event, it was pretty much a piece of cake compared to the thrash I went through replacing the takedown lever spring! I had wanted to replace the recoil spring before a planned range trip this Sunday - and as I had broken a thumbnail at work today (Horrors! The humanity! ![]() |
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#2 |
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Zorba, Congratulations! One of the tougher things to do on a Luger.
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Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) ![]() "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know." |
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#3 |
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I'd rather do a recoil spring than that darn takedown lever spring. Ugh!
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#4 |
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Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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both the take lever spring and the recoil spring, well, most of the time they are little devils!
the take down spring, if I can get an edge into the groove, it will just slide in, but yes, I have spent 30 minutes and having it slide out under pressure from my pliers... the recoil spring is a lot easier with a tool i bought from a forum member, it still can be tricky, but you use a screw driver with a bent and sharpened point and it is easier... |
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#5 | |
Lifer
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![]() Quote:
![]() If not, is it made from a Phillips or flat screwdriver??? How exactly is it used???
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#6 |
Lifer
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#7 | |
Lifer
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![]() Quote:
![]() I've only had to detail strip 2 or 3 Lugers, and frankly I don't recall how I got that mainspring in/out...But I do recall having it facing the wrong way when I was ready to finally 'set the hook'... ![]() Now, I'm looking at the tool with the pink background color, and I think the very tip of the tool is split...At least that is my impression...Is it??? ![]() Edit: I took my grip off to look, and now I remember that I used an old needle-scaler needle (they're 3mm x 7" long and exactly fit in the hole) to use both hands to get the spring compressed, with the frame in a vise. BTW: I use this tool to pull cuttings off my lathe work, but it should work on Luger mainsprings as well as its primary purpose - Cotter Pin Puller. Should be available at any auto parts/tools store. Handy thing to throw in your toolbox.
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#8 |
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I just used a small screwdriver inserted through the hole. One hand to do that, and one hand to place a temporary spacer on the bottom side - hook up the hook, remove spacer. Done.
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#9 |
Lifer X5
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BUT, did you put it in right-side-up ??
if you didn't, you will have to do it over.............. |
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#10 |
Lifer
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...
![]() Do you have a picture of the right side up???
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#11 |
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#12 | |
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![]() Quote:
Would you please explain further, as I am having difficulty visualizing what you are doing? thanks! Sieger |
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#13 |
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I'll try to describe:
Gun frame upside down on table. The already inserted, but not hooked up, spring assy has a small screwdriver inserted through the hole of the spring guide rod. I hooked two fingers of my right (strong) hand on each side of the screwdriver and bore downward. Takes quite a bit of force, and the frame wants to scoot away if you don't balance the force correctly. Once the spring is compressed, I inserted a spacer - in my case it was a bit from another screwdriver - between the end of the guide rod (with the hole that the little screwdriver is through) and the bottom end of the gun frame - which in this case is on top because its upside down. That holds the hook of the guide rod in far enough to hook the recoil lever onto it, then you can remove the spacer, allowing the spring assy back to its rest position. Clear as mud? This step took the place of Thor's under the bench maneuver as that wasn't an option for me at the time. Thor's method is probably better as the recoil lever has gravity working with it, instead of against it as in my method. All the usual safety caveats apply! |
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#14 |
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Here's the one I made from a spare Torx driver. I offset the tip in order to center the forces more, and clear the frame better. Pretty snazzy, eh?
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#15 |
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This could be employed on a Nambu, but not on a Luger - yes?
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#16 |
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Also on a P-38 handgun with it's 2 recoil springs.
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#17 |
Lifer
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I wish I'd thought of that when I ordered my Wolff/Nambu spring 'kit'...My P-38 is a VoPo refurb, but a new set of springs wouldn't have hurt...
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#18 |
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I have "A" P.38 recoil spring, NOS. Anyone can have it for the postage!
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#19 |
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I guess I got lucky. I was ready for such a struggle when changing my Luger spring. Ready to make tools and stuff. I used a punch and it hooked on first try. I will probably not be able to do that again. It was just too easy.
Gun is hundreds of rounds since now and cycling great. |
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#20 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Yea, it really wasn't that bad - and I was prepared for a real thrash! Maybe even a broken nail or two...
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