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04-03-2010, 03:41 AM | #1 |
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First Luger...many questions?
I recently got my first Luger and i'm trying to figure out what i have. What i do know is it Has 1915 date serial # 4882 stamped on 7 different locations except clip shows serial number 2825 and has a + sign on it. There are 4 different symbols stamped on the barrel last one looking like a bird " eagle maybe" ?The word Gesichert is stamped by safety and the letters DWM on top. I've searched and saw different guns stating "stock lug" and extractor marked "Geladen" . What does this mean and how do i know if i have them? Where do i look? Any other info anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated. I apoligize if these are rookie questions but i'm new to the Luger world and hope to find books and articles to learn all i can about this new addition. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions you might have ! I will post some pictures as soon as i figure out how
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04-03-2010, 09:30 AM | #2 |
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Start by reading the new collectors forum. Lots of info. The stock lug, which you should have, is on the back of grip. Part of the frame, down low. Looks like a rail. You won't see the marking on the extractor until you pull it up, or put a spent piece of brass in the breech bolt face. Read too on how it is possible to fire a luger with the upper off the frame. One small push on the front of the sear bar is all it takes.
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04-03-2010, 11:47 PM | #3 |
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until you are given the go-a-head by one of the truly smart guys on this forum,
do not put a live round in your gun.....do not load up the magazine and try it in the gun to see how it looks.....please be very careful until you get more familiar with these fine weapons.....they do have their quirks.....welcome to the most fun you will ever have.....tom
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04-04-2010, 03:01 AM | #4 |
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Thanks !
Thanks for the responces guys. I've been reading the forum every chance i get today and even managed to take it down ,clean and actually got it back together ok so it took a few tries to reassemble but theres a learning curve i guess. Is there any significance related to the 1915 or is it a run of the mill model? I can't decide if i want to shoot this or keep as a show piece. I'd love to shoot it but would hate to find out later i shouldn't of? The more i read the more i realize how much i have to learn. I can already tell owning 1 of these historic firearms won't be enuff guess i have the Luger Bug bigtime ! Thanks again guys !
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04-04-2010, 09:26 AM | #5 |
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I can't think of "special" significance of a 1915 DWM, but without photos, etc. I can't be sure. And they are all too nice to shoot and have a story to tell.
But to shoot or not to shoot, that is the unanswerable question. If your 1915 is all matching but the mag and in very good shape, it would be both a shame AND a financial kick in the nuts to break a numbered part. Best and safest course is to buy one that you designate as a shooter. But if it were mine and I only wanted to fire my one Luger very rarely, I'd probably take good care of it, transport in a gun rug and use an aftermarket mag., and go make some noise. Good luck and welcome aboard. dju |
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04-04-2010, 09:58 AM | #6 |
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Reading the FAQ might help, but let me give you info off the top of my head.
I am assuming your's is a "DWM" that is the manufacturer and the logo is on the center toggle 1915 is the year it was made and shows it was made for the military The last two of the serial number should be on most small parts under the barrel ther should be the serial number and below that a suffix (letter) and then a 8,83 (or 8,82, 8,85 etc); this shows it was accepted for service for that part. Ed
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04-04-2010, 10:23 AM | #7 |
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Hi, Welcome to the addiction!
As mentioned here, the answers to your questions are on this site. I'm new here too, but to answer a couple of your specific questions, here's what I have learned: - The stock lug is a small structure on the back-strap of the grip that is used to mount a wooden stock. The intent was to make it possible to turn the Luger into a carbine. - "Geladen" is German for "Loaded". It is text that appears on the left side of the extractor at the top of the bolt when a round is in the chamber. Try pushing the extractor up when the breach is open and you will see the text. On shooting a Luger, consider the following: - A large portion of the value of a collectible Luger rests on the fact that it hasn't been modified since it left the factory. This includes retention of the original finish and all of the original parts. - Lugers are precision manufactured to the point that their specifications are very tight. This is why all the parts are numbered. They were hand fitted to function reliably in the gun at the factory. - The more close to the factory new condition, the higher the value of a collectible Luger. This includes the original finish, and metal condition. I have seen Mauser manufactured Lugers in a local collection that look like they have never been issued or fired. Effectively brand new. They are quite valuable. - Refinishing a Luger makes it look great, but eliminates a large portion of it's value. - The gun was made and proof tested to shoot. In the case of your Luger, that was 95 years ago. - Ammunition was loaded to different standards 95 years ago. - Parts can deteriorate . Old parts can weaken when corroded or flawed in manufacture. Springs can take a "set" or weaken. - - - - - So, how to proceed. That is a judgment call. I'm learning that it takes a practiced eye to gauge the condition of a Luger, the state it's in, determine if it's been refinished, verify the fit, properly lubricate and store. Good pictures help, but it's hard to judge condition except in person. If you have a Luger that is collectible, and it gets damaged in transport or firing, you've lost value and also lost history. So.... go slow; educate yourself; appreciate what you have; take your time. If you choose shoot your Luger, turn "high anxiety" into "high enjoyment" by being well informed. If you choose to get a "shooter", you'll find a good buy buys in East German reconditioned police Lugers (VOPO) that entered our market a few years ago. They come up regularly on auction sites. I bought my shooter from a member of this forum, and have been very happy with it. Marc |
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01-26-2011, 09:30 AM | #8 |
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I would recommend getting a shooter grade Luger to fire, yours is too nice! WWI Lugers dont have a vented firing pin and one over charged load or a leaky pierced primer can take out the firing pin retainer/breechblock metal. There is a small notch on the inside of the breechblock that locks the retainer guide into it, it can shear away with an overload. Even factory ammo gets recalled once in a while, dont take a chance with that gem you have. WWII Lugers changed the firing pin to a vented design that helps this problem. A vented pin can be purchased separately and they are easy to change out. Even on shooter grade Lugers (yours is a Collection grade IMO) I would make sure they have a vented firing pin. As mentioned above, the gun has quirks. The Luger pistols, unless fitted with a sear safety like in Police models, CAN FIRE with only the top section, without the frame, very dangerous if you dont know this. It is never safe to put a round in the chamber unless you are preparring to fire the gun.
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