Luger Target Trigger Modification

[Hugh]

Improve the trigger pull on your shooter Luger by installing trigger stop and slack adjusting screws.


The top adjustment, which is a #2-56 Allen set screw, is designed to take up the small but annoying amount of slack that is present in the linkup between the trigger and the trigger bar. Although it will do so, this screw is NOT designed to adjust sear engagement. If sear engagement is altered by turning this screw in too far, the trigger bar plunger will not reengage the trigger bar when the trigger is released, which will put the gun out of action. The lower #4-40 Allen screw functions as a standard trigger-stop.


By installing these adjustment screws, the total length of trigger travel can be cut from over 1/8" to a hair over 1/16", with practically zero backlash. Once you have the screws set properly, a small drop of Locktite on each will insure less frequent adjustment.


The first of the attached pictures show the adjustment screws mounted in a 1970's era Mauser Luger trigger. The next two pictures show the trigger stop screw mounted in a standard Luger trigger.


In future installments, I will describe how to smooth and lighten your Luger's trigger SAFELY to obtain a smooth 2# trigger pull.












http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/targettrigger3.jpg

[BILL]

Thanks Hugh, I have several .22 target pistols that have very similar stops. This might be an excellent mod for that 'spare' trigger, just in case you have a matched pistol that you want to keep matching. If you look around at gunshows there are usually some parts guys who aren't trying to retire by selling Luger parts. eBay is actually bad for spare parts (often closing out at the price of a whole pistol). Just my opinion..your mileage may vary.

[Dwight Gruber]

This is great.


I'll be the first to raise my hand and say that a crisp trigger pull makes all the difference in the world to the accuracy of a Luger. Some previous owner had done a hack job to the trigger lever of the last shooter I bought--I didn't recognize the import of what they had done until I shot it, and I'm not sure I'd recommend that anybody else do it--(notice that I'm not saying what "it" is, because I really think it is not a good idea)


BUT


there is almost no slack to take up in the trigger pull, and offhand at 50 feet it shoots groups two or three times tighter than my other Lugers. It is the trigger pull which makes all the difference, I can tell when I simply touch off the round. The gun is otherwise a completely ordinary, unremarkable, average shape 1923 Commercial.


--Dwight

[Luke]

I agree with Bill; this would make an interesting modification for a SPARE trigger. Since only the trigger is modified, it could be discarded if the operation didn't work out well. I have a 6" shooter which is really an excellent Luger, mechanically; but, as with all Lugers, the trigger pull is less than optimum. Might be worth a try.


Tom Heller probably has spare triggers.


Would hope that anyone trying this will post a record of their success/failure for the rest of the group.

[John Sabato]

[HÃ?Â¥kan Spuhr]

The triggerstop can also be archived by adjusting the triggerpull in a manner that the trigger stops against the frame when the gun fires.

The good thing about this is you never have a problem with selfadjusting screws and other funny things.


But I am using triggerstops on other guns, but on the luger I have always used the frame instead.


Regards HÃ?Â¥kan

Thanks, I've got an Anshutz .22 (Mod 1451?) with an adjustment exactly like what you did. I had to loosen it back up because it was messing me up with my other guns. Had an AK once that you could nearly pass out from lack of oxygen trying to shoot. Had a trigger pull from here to Texas.


Roadkill

[Hugh]

The "slack adjustment" screw can be mounted this way in the standard Luger triggers.




http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/targettrigger4.jpg

Very nice, but I see two problems.


1. You have my grips on it,


2. Someone stepped on the barrel and flattened it!


Very sweet Hugh, did you do the work?


Ed

[Hugh]

I wish I could, gonna try it if I every get caught up with Babies. I bought this gun at a local gun show. It was done by a now deceased gunsmith from the Dallas area. I did do the trigger work however.

[Dan Clemons]

Hi Hugh:


Thanks for bringing this subject up!! How come my shooters have a long trigger pull and my mint Lugers that I don't shoot have a short pull? There seems to be no consistancy.


Dan C.

The method Hugh describes and trigger photos come from a May 1974 "Shooting Times" article pages 28,29 and 30 by Mike Gorman. The piece was directed at work on a 1970s Mauser. The methods work fine on other Lugers. I have refered to the article and reworked fireing pins for a number of years with good success. Polishing bearing surfaces as described in the article also helps a bit. The small screws in trig help. My experience has been--that adjusting the slack take up screw is a bit tricky. Remove too much slack and sear does not catch when fired even though it may work fine when action is worked by hand. Perhaps someone [maybe me] would scan the article and forward to seriously intersted guys.

[Marvin]

Art,


I wonder what it would take to be able to repring the article on the Forum? I sure wold like to read that one myself.


Marvin