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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 482
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Gentlemen,
I am a pretty good P.38 mechanic (the gun not the airplane) and want to take the plunge over to P.08's. I have recently bought 2 "shooters" and was wondering if changing the mainspring is SOP. When I get a "shooter" P.38 I change the recoil guide springs, when I shoot my 1911 too much I change the spring. What is recommended with Lugers? I took the first shooter down the range on Sunday and it functioned flawlessly with American Eagle 124g and Winchester 115g bullets. Can the gun get damaged by having a weak spring? After all, the spring was installed in 1938! Mark |
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#2 |
Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso
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If it is a shooter and "functioned flawlessly", in my opinion if it ain't broke don't fix it. I think a weak spring will reveal itself with jams and stovepipes well before there is any danger of damage to the gun.
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#3 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 482
Thanks: 1
Thanked 126 Times in 29 Posts
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Ron,
Thanks for the advice! I have another 1920 commercial gun in .30 which stovepipes and has failure to extract at times. I would think this mainspring might be weak? What about the failure to extract? Do you think I need an extractor spring? Mark |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NC - USA
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Mark -
I have exactly the same problem with a 7.65mm 1920 DWM. I have been told that the available ammo is not hot enough to fully cycle the toggle. I would be interested in your solution if you find one. Luke
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"Peace, if possible; truth, at any cost." . . . Martin Luther |
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#5 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 482
Thanks: 1
Thanked 126 Times in 29 Posts
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Luke,
I noticed that Wolfe Springs has 36lb reduced power mainsprings. Has anyone ever used this to fix the problem? Mark |
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