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Hi and Welcome -
What do you want to know about it? You have a WWI German Army Luger manufactured by DWM in 1916 (the date is over the chamber - or is that a 15? can't quite tell from the blurry picture). Looks to be in pretty good shape,and appears to be all original finish, but more and sharper pictures would help. There should be a "16" on just about every small part you can find. If all matching, then it is worth over $1000. Both of the walnut grips are chipped at the bottom corners - they don't usually chip there. There is normally a letter suffix under the SN on the barrel, but I don't know what the mark is below the SN on your barrel. Doesn't look like any letter I know. May be an old rework on the barrel? - Geo |
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looks like a 'c' under the barrel to me, but hard to tell. Could be a run of the no suffix of them too
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I concur that from the photos it appears to have the original finish. I do not see serial numbers on the sear bar and the take down lever. The loss on the lower corner of both grips looks like it might have been a deliberate cut but I can't imagine why.
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Thanks Guys! It looks like a C under the SN, then 383 marked under the C.
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8.83 perhaps on the barrel base?
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should the number and letter on the bottom of the barrel show haloes?
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Congratulations on your Luger and welcome to the forum, Wade.
Lightened areas around the barrel serial number stampings should be visible. These are called "halos" and occur due to the stress on the metal caused by the stamp when done after finishing. I can't see these in your photos, but they may be there under different lighting. If there are none, it's likely that someone has refinished this Luger at some point. If the grips are properly numbered to this pistol, you should contact Hugh Clark (on this board) about repairing the broken one. Marc
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I think "Yes". But halo need to be checked under very good light. The extractor is supposed to have explicit number on it as well. The color of the toggle (2nd picture) shows strong "soy sauce tone", might be picture issue, or old dried-up surfacial cosmoline? DWM's internal is not blued.
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Wade, here is an example of what halos on the barrel would look like on an original rust blued Luger:
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Are we saying it is a refinish?
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Not necesarily. The finish on the gun in general looks good to me. The photo you show of the markings at the bottom of the barrel, however, looks like it is coated with oil and poorly lit. Halos do fade with time, handling and exposure.
A better lit photo of this area, shot from straight on and free of oil would help., |
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Wade, your Luger has the sharp edges, aged straw and high point wear that you would expect to find in an original finish gun.
If you take the receiver off the frame, you should see much of the interior of the frame (on the top, not sides under the grips) in the white. Also, the front of the muzzle and the small pin holding the toggle axle in should be in the white. None of this is visible in the pictures you posted. Sometimes halos are barely visible, but they should be there. If they are completely missing, it would indicate refinish in that area. Marc
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Althought pictures can be deceiving, in my opinion, the finish is completely original.
The overall wear and patina looks uniform and correct. Oh, and the bright blue ("indigo") on the sear bar spring is correct: it is achieved by heating that part at a specific temperature. |
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If you take the receiver off the frame, you should see much of the interior of the frame (on the top, not sides under the grips) in the white.
Also, the front of the muzzle and the small pin holding the toggle axle in should be in the white. None of this is visible in the pictures you posted.
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