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#1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 133
Thanks: 8
Thanked 22 Times in 16 Posts
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Purchased a beautiful mint example a while back, including holster. I did not realize until later that the FP was broken in half...
I have been looking for a replacemente firing pin for one of these for quite a while. I even had a smith fabricate one for me which broke at first use. Does anyone have any sources for parts or decent reproductions? |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 207
Thanks: 1
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![]() Quote:
www.adsmach.com Steve Kuker Happy hunting. H |
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#3 | |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,197
Thanks: 1,416
Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts
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![]() Quote:
However, that is a more expensive option, and can get out of hand. A 'friend' of mine once got me a chunk of Kryptonite* when all I had asked for was mild 1020 steel. I ruined more end mills on that part (they would start to dull, the steel would heat up & harden and the end mill would dull more etc) than it would have cost me to buy the mild steel block [4" x4" x 14"]. ![]() * My name for 8600 series steel Anway, you could call Sarco also; they get weird stuff in all the time.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Marco Island, Florida
Posts: 4,867
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Although Gun Parts Corp shows it as sold out, they often have small numbers of parts that are not enough to advertise. Contact them and see if they can have someone visually look for one. I've done this in the past with occasional success.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 207
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These guys tested the firing pins from the Llama, a Colt 1911, and an AR15 firing pin that was rattling around in my car. They go on and on about RC hardness curves and ASTM specs and blah, blah, blah. I am impressed that the subject of metallurgy and heat treatment is very deep, and that kitchen table gunsmiths like me should stay on the porch...
Bottom line on a firing pin seems to be that real gun manufacturers do heat treat firing pins, and this is essential for a proper service life. That said, they used some kind of steel that was pretty hard, and said that it will work fine but will eventually deform with much use. H |
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#6 | |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,197
Thanks: 1,416
Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts
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![]() Quote:
![]() I am a shade-tree gun hack, and I have learned many of my limitations...Using anything higher than 4140 steel is too expensive for my work...Steel like 8620 work hardens quickly, especially in thin areas...8620 will get harder than HSS drills, reamers, and end mills...I have the invoices and box of junk tooling to prove it... ![]() 4140 (also called 'Ordnance Steel') is what I use now for firearms parts; it is quite user-friendly but can still be hardened & annealed/tempered... Production firearms are like any other commodity; they are made to the lowest possible specifications to keep cost down... If whatever was done by the OP's smith caused it to break, then IMHO, that smith did something wrong... ...$.02... ![]()
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