I can't decide

I have this 41 byf that I can't decide what to do with.

The pistol all matches and is a decent enough pistol.

However, there is what I consider to be some significant rust on the thing. Mostly on the barrel. Both sides and at the muzzle there is fairly heavy rust present. On the receiver there are also a couple of spots of what is living rust.

Rust is rust, as far as I know rust never stops unless it is removed. But removing rust also damages the finish.


I don't know which way to go. From looking at the picture below, can you suggest something?


Note, the pistol does NOT look as nice as the picture and I do not have much money in this pistol.


Any advice would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Mike




http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...963&p=48362674

Here is a little different lighting.




http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...963&p=48362672

Mike,I'd definately remove any active rust with 0000 steel wool, as it will only grow. The area where the rust is remove will be bare metal, so you will either have to keep it well oiled, or apply some cold blue to these spots (which I don't recommend on a collectable matching pistol). The other alternative, is to see if Ted G. can just reblue the barrel or other affected areas. Tom

[Matt]

I would buff the rust spots out, using steel wool as Tom suggested, and keep it oiled regularly. It still looks like it is a decent Luger, and reblueing would detract from the value. Soak the steel wool with oil and work gently with it. Be sure to remove any fibers left over from the steel wool as this can cause additional rusting. A bronze-wool pad also will work.

Tom, Matt, thanks for your replies.

I guess the problem I'm having is deciding when a pistol should remain as it is or if I should "fix" it.


I have a shooter price in this pistol but the pistol is not really a shooter.


I live in a dry climate and rust isn't a problem.

Pre-existing rust is always a problem anywhere.


I can't really remove the rust without damaging the finish even further. If I leave the rust it will eventually cause pitting and otherwise damage the finish.


So either way, this pistol has a problem. If an expert like Ted refinishes the pistol it will lose value. If it is going to lose value why not fix the badly pitted bore with a new barrel and have a really nice shooter? If I replace the barrel the pistol would certainly become a lowly shooter.

Or would just an expert refinish be a better fix? Is any refinished pistol also just a lowly shooter?


Does all matching and all original always trump anything else? Always?


Mike

[Craig]

Here's something else to consider. The original barrel could be relined.

Hello Craig,


I hadn't thought of relining the bore. Maybe that's the best solution, refinish and reline and have an all matching shooter.


Mike

[tony k]

.... without damaging the finish further. Use the very fine 0000 steel wool mentioned above, soaked in a light gun oil. Start gently, and work slowly. With the right combination of oil and pressure it WILL remove rust without damaging the surrounding bluing (the blue directly underneath the rust, of course, is gone, eaten away with the metal).


You can get all the rust out and down to bare metal, then keep it coated with oil, or a touch of cold blue to soften the contrast between blued metal and white steel. The 0000 steel wool, when used judiciously, will not remove any existing bluing.


I have used this method on several collector-quality guns that had rust developing in thin scratches. It removed the rust, but not the finish. As long as you use enough oil, and not too much pressure, the blue will be OK. (Of course, using dry steel wool, or pushing down too hard, will remove the blue along with the rust.)


Give it a try -- it's way less intrusive than a total refinish. And if you still don't like the results, send it to Ted!

MK, If you have some storage rust on the barrel, it's a pretty good bet that their is some rust starting under the grips. You might as well do this are at the same time and besure to also clean inside of the wood grips and apply some oil to prevent reoccurence.

You need not worry about rust "growing" if you don't remove the rust so there is no need to rush your decision. Just heat the metal where rust exists (or any other pits that could harbor a micro-environment) to over 200 F for a few minutes. Rust forms from oxygenating iron atoms. This doesn't occur unless H2O is in contact with the iron. Drive off the H2) then keep the pistol in a dessicated environment (easiest way to do this is create a moisture barrier between metal and H2O in air--such as with oil--the same thing in skin moisturizers that keep water from evaporating from skin). So, heat gun, put on very light oil to get into micropits and crevasses at rust spots, and grease or use heavyweight oil on gun for more long-term protection. The rust will not spread following removal of H2O.


This is one way to treat cold-blued steel after cold-blue treatment. The cold blue often is in acqueous solution and will quickly turn rusty red. Heat the steel to drive off the moisture and then protect with oil or grease--the rust won't form.