Mauser Model 1934

alamar · 12-07-2012, 12:12 AM

Been awhile since I last visited!

Anyway, I was looking at a Mauser 1934, and initially wasnt all that interested. Came home, did a bit of reading and am now considering buying it. I only took a few of pics, can get more. Can anyone tell me what they think of this pistol? Anything I should be looking for?

alanint · 12-07-2012, 05:15 AM

This pistol may have been issued to the Kriegsmarine's North Fleet. Any nazi era waffenamps on her?

alamar · 12-07-2012, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alanint

This pistol may have been issued to the Kriegsmarine's North Fleet. Any nazi era waffenamps on her?

I figured this would be the first question asked! I didnt look really hard, because at the time I wasnt interested. I will hopefully have time to go have another look and check. If it doesnt have any (as I recall not seeing any), is it worth buying to collect?

alanint · 12-07-2012, 08:37 AM

The matching magazine and pistol markings are certainly intriguing, but anybody with an engraver could have applied these. (The cut of the engraving also looks a little fresh. One would expect SOME patina or corrosion to have worked its way into the engraving cuts over 70 plus years).

I doubt the Kriegsmarine would have engraved a property mark on a commercial pistol. If you can find supporting nazi era markings on the pistol, then it becomes a potential collector's piece.

At the tagged price of $199, you certainly cannot go wrong in purchasing this pistol, whether it turns out to be a collectable or not.

alamar · 12-07-2012, 08:41 AM

Thanks Alanint.

The price is $199. According to the yellow price tag in one of the pics, it says it comes complete with a holster. I didnt see the holster, but will look today. I did check the property mark a bit closer with internet pics. It seems to be the exact font and style, so i would think that it is genuine, but I am by far not an expert.

mrerick · 12-07-2012, 12:43 PM

Take a good look at the rear of the side plate. It looks like it may have been buggered and bent in by someone trying to remove it. This is a precision area of this pistol.

Marc

Olle · 12-07-2012, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alamar

Thanks Alanint.

The price is $199. According to the yellow price tag in one of the pics, it says it comes complete with a holster. I didnt see the holster, but will look today. I did check the property mark a bit closer with internet pics. It seems to be the exact font and style, so i would think that it is genuine, but I am by far not an expert.

That's a very fair price even for a "Plain Jane" 1934. Just buy it, you can't lose.

GySgt1811 · 12-07-2012, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick

Take a good look at the rear of the side plate. It looks like it may have been buggered and bent in by someone trying to remove it. This is a precision area of this pistol.

Marc

I'm comparing the picture with my pistol. Marc is right; that side plate could be an operating issue. As you dissemble the pistol the side plate simply lifts straight up - riding in miniature grooves in the frame and tracks in the edges of the side plate. A bubba could have tried to pull it straight out and/or "press" it in to refit it. If it is merely mis-installed it may not be an operational problem; proper re installation may fix it. (Just slide it - sideplate tracks into frame grooves - in from the top.)

If it is bent (dished inward) there could be a greater problem - and the grooves and tracks may have been bent or broken. That may account for the very good price.

Also be aware that the safety on these can be troublesome. With wear, the safety can be over ridden by an energetic pull on the trigger.

Now, with all the negative poop being said

...great little pistol, possible great history, and a good price. Enjoy!

Best Regards,

Gunny John

alamar · 12-09-2012, 09:08 PM

Had another look at the pistol. There is a stamp between the barrel and frame when the action is locked back. 3 of us looked at and all had a hard time trying to determine what the marking was. Best was an eagle with an N underneath.

Holster was not military.

The sideplate that a few of you are referring to; is that the area just below the "serrated bump" found on the frame? How would I know if its damaged? The slide seems to move back and forth freely.

Olle · 12-09-2012, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alamar

Had another look at the pistol. There is a stamp between the barrel and frame when the action is locked back. 3 of us looked at and all had a hard time trying to determine what the marking was. Best was an eagle with an N underneath.

Holster was not military.

The sideplate that a few of you are referring to; is that the area just below the "serrated bump" found on the frame? How would I know if its damaged? The slide seems to move back and forth freely.

The side plate is the flat part on the left side of the frame with the Mauser logo on it, seems like there is some loss of bluing there.

Like I said in my previous post, $199 is a very fair price for any 1934 in this condition, even if the stamps turn out to be nothing. In other words, don't let it get away while you're investigating the stamps. If you don't want it, just give me the guy's phone number and I'll take it.

GySgt1811 · 12-09-2012, 10:38 PM

[
The sideplate that a few of you are referring to; is that the area just below the "serrated bump" found on the frame? How would I know if its damaged? The slide seems to move back and forth freely.[/QUOTE]

Yes. Let's see if I can make this somewhat clear.

1) Remove the magazine.
2) clear the pistol by retracting the slide. The slide will lock back.
3) Leave it so.
4) Turn the pistol upside down, and pointing away from you, depress the small knurled piece at the lower front of the pistol with your left thumb nail, and with the knurled piece still depressed,
5) With your right hand rotate the retaining rod flat end 90 degrees to the right or left, and pull it forward off of the pistol.
6)Turn the pistol right side up and grasp the barrel. Wriggle the barrel from side to side and you lift up on it. The barrel will lift off of the pistol frame.
7) Now, here is the hard part. Insert the magazine back into the pistol but DO NOT SEAT IT. Hold the pistol in your right hand, pull and hold the trigger to the rear, pull the slide slightly to the rear and while you're doing all this, seat the magazine fully by pushing the whole shebang down onto a flat surface such as a tabletop. The slide will release and will come forward off of the receiver.
8) Notice the firing pin. See how it is mounted. It is held in place by spring tension onto the striker release. Grasp the pin and pull it back an up. It will fly off and roll under the filing cabinet. Next time you take it off wrap it in a rag first. Note how it went on 'cause that's what you have to do to get it back on.
9) Remove the grips.
10) Now, holding the pistol frame in your left hand with the handle to the right and the barrel end to the left, put you left thumb gently under the world famous Mauser marked side bar plate by the trigger and your right thumb under the side plate at the rear gently push up. It will lift up and off.

You have now removed the mis-installed (or broken!) side plate. Inside, under the side plate, is the lock work. Don't even try to mess with it! Clean any dirt out with a small brush, and lightly oil the works.

Note the right and left edges of the side plate. You should see and feel beautifully machined male ridges and on the receiver/frame you should see beautifully machined female tracks. Lining everything up gently slide the side plate into its tracks and reassemble the pistol in reverse order. If it goes back together and everything functions..very good. The lockwork is OK. If it goes back together the way it is supposed to...and it doesn't function properly, the lockwork is screwed up and that's a heck of a lot more complicated to fix that I think I can cover with my limited talents.

If the sideplate will not reinstall properly because it's been booger all the heck...put it back the way you found it and punt.

Hope this helps a bit. It's not really as difficult as it sounds.

Best regards and good luck,

Gunny John

12-07-2012, 12:12 AM	#1
alamar User Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 79 Thanks: 7 Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts	Mauser Model 1934 Been awhile since I last visited! Anyway, I was looking at a Mauser 1934, and initially wasnt all that interested. Came home, did a bit of reading and am now considering buying it. I only took a few of pics, can get more. Can anyone tell me what they think of this pistol? Anything I should be looking for? Attached Thumbnails

12-07-2012, 12:43 PM	#6
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,900 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	Take a good look at the rear of the side plate. It looks like it may have been buggered and bent in by someone trying to remove it. This is a precision area of this pistol. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

12-07-2012, 05:15 AM	#2
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	This pistol may have been issued to the Kriegsmarine's North Fleet. Any nazi era waffenamps on her?

12-07-2012, 08:37 AM	#4
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	The matching magazine and pistol markings are certainly intriguing, but anybody with an engraver could have applied these. (The cut of the engraving also looks a little fresh. One would expect SOME patina or corrosion to have worked its way into the engraving cuts over 70 plus years). I doubt the Kriegsmarine would have engraved a property mark on a commercial pistol. If you can find supporting nazi era markings on the pistol, then it becomes a potential collector's piece. At the tagged price of $199, you certainly cannot go wrong in purchasing this pistol, whether it turns out to be a collectable or not.

12-07-2012, 08:41 AM	#5
alamar User Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 79 Thanks: 7 Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts	Thanks Alanint. The price is $199. According to the yellow price tag in one of the pics, it says it comes complete with a holster. I didnt see the holster, but will look today. I did check the property mark a bit closer with internet pics. It seems to be the exact font and style, so i would think that it is genuine, but I am by far not an expert.

12-09-2012, 09:08 PM	#9
alamar User Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 79 Thanks: 7 Thanked 11 Times in 6 Posts	Had another look at the pistol. There is a stamp between the barrel and frame when the action is locked back. 3 of us looked at and all had a hard time trying to determine what the marking was. Best was an eagle with an N underneath. Holster was not military. The sideplate that a few of you are referring to; is that the area just below the "serrated bump" found on the frame? How would I know if its damaged? The slide seems to move back and forth freely.

12-09-2012, 10:38 PM	#11
GySgt1811 Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Southern Indiana Posts: 237 Thanks: 1,238 Thanked 126 Times in 84 Posts	[ The sideplate that a few of you are referring to; is that the area just below the "serrated bump" found on the frame? How would I know if its damaged? The slide seems to move back and forth freely.[/QUOTE] Yes. Let's see if I can make this somewhat clear. 1) Remove the magazine. 2) clear the pistol by retracting the slide. The slide will lock back. 3) Leave it so. 4) Turn the pistol upside down, and pointing away from you, depress the small knurled piece at the lower front of the pistol with your left thumb nail, and with the knurled piece still depressed, 5) With your right hand rotate the retaining rod flat end 90 degrees to the right or left, and pull it forward off of the pistol. 6)Turn the pistol right side up and grasp the barrel. Wriggle the barrel from side to side and you lift up on it. The barrel will lift off of the pistol frame. 7) Now, here is the hard part. Insert the magazine back into the pistol but DO NOT SEAT IT. Hold the pistol in your right hand, pull and hold the trigger to the rear, pull the slide slightly to the rear and while you're doing all this, seat the magazine fully by pushing the whole shebang down onto a flat surface such as a tabletop. The slide will release and will come forward off of the receiver. 8) Notice the firing pin. See how it is mounted. It is held in place by spring tension onto the striker release. Grasp the pin and pull it back an up. It will fly off and roll under the filing cabinet. Next time you take it off wrap it in a rag first. Note how it went on 'cause that's what you have to do to get it back on. 9) Remove the grips. 10) Now, holding the pistol frame in your left hand with the handle to the right and the barrel end to the left, put you left thumb gently under the world famous Mauser marked side bar plate by the trigger and your right thumb under the side plate at the rear gently push up. It will lift up and off. You have now removed the mis-installed (or broken!) side plate. Inside, under the side plate, is the lock work. Don't even try to mess with it! Clean any dirt out with a small brush, and lightly oil the works. Note the right and left edges of the side plate. You should see and feel beautifully machined male ridges and on the receiver/frame you should see beautifully machined female tracks. Lining everything up gently slide the side plate into its tracks and reassemble the pistol in reverse order. If it goes back together and everything functions..very good. The lockwork is OK. If it goes back together the way it is supposed to...and it doesn't function properly, the lockwork is screwed up and that's a heck of a lot more complicated to fix that I think I can cover with my limited talents. If the sideplate will not reinstall properly because it's been booger all the heck...put it back the way you found it and punt. Hope this helps a bit. It's not really as difficult as it sounds. Best regards and good luck, Gunny John