1915 DWM what do I have here?

Clarkaim · 08-02-2012, 11:25 PM

All the numbers end in 26, but the sideplate and takedown are marked different than my shooter grade. is that normal or was it forced matched maybe? Not real knowledgeable about lots of this stuff. I got it off a guy at a gunshow who wanted to sell it cheap to buy something else, paid shooter price for it. Blueing is definetly rust blue and I think is original, not a reblue. it has one issue tho.

unless you cycle it firmly, it will sometime not catch the striker on the sear. This is remedied by popping into battery rather than gently closing it. Dry fires fine, haven't taken out to shoot yet. Bore is good, some crud in it ( no time to clean due to workschedule. What have I got?

DavidJayUden · 08-02-2012, 11:42 PM

The sideplate and takeddown are marked in a commercial location, not sure why. More photos, left side, would help. I'm sure there is a logical explanation, just not thinking of one at this late hour.
Clean all the internals well before going to the range, and only load one at a time until you are sure it is safe to fire. Then 2, etc. The striker not catching may indicate that some 'smithing is in order.
dju

mrerick · 08-02-2012, 11:46 PM

Hi Clark, Welcome to the forum.

Any chance you could re-shoot your pictures with sharper details of the places where proof and serial number stampings exist. Particularly the frame, barrel and left and right receiver areas?

Try using a camera with a tripod, closeup setting and use the self timer to eliminate camera shake. Shoot in natural indirect (outdoor shaded) light.

It's very difficult to make out detail in these pictures.

In normal 1915 military accepted DWM pistols, you would expect to see the last digits of the serial number on the side face of the trigger plate and take down lever. I've attached a picture from a 1916 military accepted DWM luger. If I'm not mistaken, your parts are numbered in the commercial style.

On operation... check to make sure that the little plunger on the front end of the sear bar is operating smoothly. Make sure it pushes in and pops back without hanging up. If it feels like it hangs up, clean and lube it.

Marc

Edward Tinker · 08-02-2012, 11:48 PM

I can't think of any 1915 dated commercials, but would have to look it up, but I am more inclined to think two force matched parts, but some close ups would be good.

Ed

Clarkaim · 08-03-2012, 12:13 AM

Ill try for more pics when I can, work late nights. thanks for the tips on on the cleaning. I suspect force matching as it's all matching otherwise. If Commercial parts, would it be worth the hassle to look for military marked sideplate and takedown levers? How hard would these be to locate? I bought some repro grips from you Ed, a few years back. It's a military gun, as it has the 4 little crown thingies (technical term?) on right side. How hard is a takedown lever to install anyway?

Clarkaim · 08-03-2012, 12:14 AM

number is 26 by the way

Edward Tinker · 08-03-2012, 12:42 AM

A take down lever is a cinch, it just pops in and out...

let me look at my parts, but the take down lever and the sideplate are the parts folks want the most.....

Clarkaim · 08-12-2012, 02:24 PM

What would a sideplate set me back if you have one? would you take some off for mine in trade? Same on t-down lever, but I'd like a strawed one or just keep mine as it looks cool.

Hey I noticed that this pistol is NOT marked P.08 on the left flatside of the frame as my later model one was. what's up there?

Douglas Jr. · 08-13-2012, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarkaim

Hey I noticed that this pistol is NOT marked P.08 on the left flatside of the frame as my later model one was. what's up there?

This mark was only introduced 25 years later (in 1941), and are only seen on Mauser made pistols. So don't worry, it's ok.

Douglas

08-02-2012, 11:25 PM	#1
Clarkaim User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1915 DWM what do I have here? All the numbers end in 26, but the sideplate and takedown are marked different than my shooter grade. is that normal or was it forced matched maybe? Not real knowledgeable about lots of this stuff. I got it off a guy at a gunshow who wanted to sell it cheap to buy something else, paid shooter price for it. Blueing is definetly rust blue and I think is original, not a reblue. it has one issue tho. unless you cycle it firmly, it will sometime not catch the striker on the sear. This is remedied by popping into battery rather than gently closing it. Dry fires fine, haven't taken out to shoot yet. Bore is good, some crud in it ( no time to clean due to workschedule. What have I got? Attached Thumbnails

08-02-2012, 11:46 PM	#3
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,919 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,135 Times in 1,518 Posts	number positioning... Hi Clark, Welcome to the forum. Any chance you could re-shoot your pictures with sharper details of the places where proof and serial number stampings exist. Particularly the frame, barrel and left and right receiver areas? Try using a camera with a tripod, closeup setting and use the self timer to eliminate camera shake. Shoot in natural indirect (outdoor shaded) light. It's very difficult to make out detail in these pictures. In normal 1915 military accepted DWM pistols, you would expect to see the last digits of the serial number on the side face of the trigger plate and take down lever. I've attached a picture from a 1916 military accepted DWM luger. If I'm not mistaken, your parts are numbered in the commercial style. On operation... check to make sure that the little plunger on the front end of the sear bar is operating smoothly. Make sure it pushes in and pops back without hanging up. If it feels like it hangs up, clean and lube it. Marc Attached Thumbnails __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

08-02-2012, 11:48 PM	#4
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,960 Thanks: 2,062 Thanked 4,591 Times in 2,114 Posts	I can't think of any 1915 dated commercials, but would have to look it up, but I am more inclined to think two force matched parts, but some close ups would be good. Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

08-02-2012, 11:42 PM	#2
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	The sideplate and takeddown are marked in a commercial location, not sure why. More photos, left side, would help. I'm sure there is a logical explanation, just not thinking of one at this late hour. Clean all the internals well before going to the range, and only load one at a time until you are sure it is safe to fire. Then 2, etc. The striker not catching may indicate that some 'smithing is in order. dju

08-03-2012, 12:13 AM	#5
Clarkaim User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ill try for more pics when I can, work late nights. thanks for the tips on on the cleaning. I suspect force matching as it's all matching otherwise. If Commercial parts, would it be worth the hassle to look for military marked sideplate and takedown levers? How hard would these be to locate? I bought some repro grips from you Ed, a few years back. It's a military gun, as it has the 4 little crown thingies (technical term?) on right side. How hard is a takedown lever to install anyway?

08-03-2012, 12:14 AM	#6
Clarkaim User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	number is 26 by the way

08-03-2012, 12:42 AM	#7
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,960 Thanks: 2,062 Thanked 4,591 Times in 2,114 Posts	A take down lever is a cinch, it just pops in and out... let me look at my parts, but the take down lever and the sideplate are the parts folks want the most.....

08-12-2012, 02:24 PM	#8
Clarkaim User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	What would a sideplate set me back if you have one? would you take some off for mine in trade? Same on t-down lever, but I'd like a strawed one or just keep mine as it looks cool. Hey I noticed that this pistol is NOT marked P.08 on the left flatside of the frame as my later model one was. what's up there?