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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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What is your opinion of this bore?
I know those are not award winning photos, but I found it really difficult to make good pictures of the rifling. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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1936 S/42 Luger, FN Browning M1906, Glock-19, La Coruna M43 Spanish Mauser, Hungarian M44 Mosin-Nagant, Suhl KKV-1001, Mossberg 500A |
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#2 |
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I am not a 'bore' guy and it is something I look at with barely prejudicing me on whether I buy it or not...
Your bore has a lot more than what I would say is freckling or frosting in a description, if I was selling, I would say, 'has light pitting throughout the bore'. It probably shoots just fine, with pitting you never know, let alone from a luger to the next luger you never know ![]() Ed
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Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV |
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#3 |
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The best way to find out is to take it to the range. If it's accurate and consistent, forget about it.
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It doesn't look to bad. If on a collectible will make some difference? If on a shooter it should be fine. These guns were used in War and we cannot expect them to be perfect. Bill
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#6 |
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If I were selling "fair to poor."
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I agree with all the members that say "shoot it"! bore descriptions are subjective and if the gun is being represented as a shooter, then practical accuracy is all that matters, not how it looks to any inspection.
My MP40 has a dark, speckled bore from the use of cheap, Eastern Block corrosive blanks fired at demonstrations and reenactments. I can still take that gun and fire single shots dead on at clay disks at 100yards and break 9 out of 10. Bore frost is unimportant if the gun shoots. |
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#8 |
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My first Luger was a 1918 Erma that I purchased back in 1961 and the bore looked very similar to yours. At 25 yds or so I could consistently hit beer cans, crab apples and just about anything else I wanted. That was 1961 and looking thru the sights with 15 year old eyes made all the difference in the world.
I think if you stay with jacketed bullets at normal velocities you should still be able to hit pretty good............................ |
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Any chance that would be a 1918 Erfurt rather than Erma?
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#10 |
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You are correct; it was an Erfurt! My mistake...................................
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#11 |
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Since we're telling tales, I have a 1913 DWM Shooter with a similar bore as pictured. Shot at paper for the first time a few weeks ago from a sandbag rest at 15 yds using a spotting scope to adjust fire. First shot was 6" high and ~1" left. Fired 2 more rounds for grouping, but could not see them on paper. Held low and right to adjust fire. POI was in the bull, 2 more for grouping, and none visible. WTF! Walked out at cease fire to retrieve target, and saw that each hole was a ragged cloverleaf. I have a new respect for that pistol. BTW, it ran flawlessly with a MecGar mag for 50 rds. Here is a pic of it below the Hugh Clark "Baby" I'm trying to sell locally.
Last edited by calibrator; 05-03-2015 at 02:27 PM. |
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#12 |
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Hi:
You have a well worn bore that has seen a lot of corrosive ammo without regular cleaning. If the crown on your barrel is still tight, I think you may well still have an accurate shooter. The only way to find out, as others above have stated, it to take it out and shoot it. Sieger |
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#13 |
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Thank you all! Yes, it still shoots great in my opinion (if hitting 25 cm (9,8 inch) diameter round steels from 25 meters (27 yards) without a problem is good for this bore ). I was just curios about the opinion of the professionals.
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1936 S/42 Luger, FN Browning M1906, Glock-19, La Coruna M43 Spanish Mauser, Hungarian M44 Mosin-Nagant, Suhl KKV-1001, Mossberg 500A |
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