Coupling Link Pin Removal

sheepherder · 02-12-2011, 05:37 PM

I recall one of the 'Norms' saying that all Luger pins are driven out from right to left...

I'm looking at the Hintergelenk on the Luger CD, and it does not appear to be a tapered hole...the dimension is 2.6mm straight through...doesn't seem to have a flange...

Why would it matter which way to drive it out???

I need to remove one of these to fit a shorter link...

Is this a really tight press fit??? My arbor press is only rated for 1-ton...

G.T. · 02-12-2011, 06:01 PM

Hello to all, coupling link pin is straight, and should be a "tight slip fit??" (is that like an oximoron??) I have run into some that simply will just never move, heat and a press was my only choice at one time in my life... now being older, aaannnnddd.... wiser?? Nawwww.. Anyway, now I would soak it in penatrating oil for how ever long it takes.. and the initial bust loose punch would be a thick dia. with just a short correct dia. push end.. (you can alway bring out the wimpy punches after you get movement)....and into the arbor press we'would go.....

... I only use hammers after a few beers... results then, usually are fairly predictable...

Good luck, best to all, til...lat'r...GT

BTW, IMPORTANT!!!! first, you have to make a heavy duty support fixture for the toggle link to press dead nut flat... not kind'a flat... but flat punch end, total contact to flat coupling link pin end... Any extra movement / flex anywhere will steal your thunder... only then, after we have NOT done this, do we get out the beer....

sheepherder · 02-12-2011, 06:20 PM

Thanks Gerald!

It only took a moderate amount of pressure in the arbor press to start it, and a finishing nail to [er...] finish driving it out...

It did seem to have a slight bias to being driven out from right to left...the left end was ground flat, while the right end seems slightly domed...might just be my eyes, though...

Thor · 02-12-2011, 06:24 PM

I sometime run in to this. The bad bad boys are the sear bar plunger disconnector pin (small as a push pin in diameter), the front sight blad, the coupling link pin, and the small pin that goes through the top of the rear toggle link that retains the middle toggle axle pin. Soak in Kroil 3-4 days, then put in a freezer in a zip lock to keep oil from getting in the freezer, leave it over night, then add some heat from a blow driver. Hopfully the metal around the offending part will be slightly larger (due to the temperature diffential) than than the pin and the pin can now be removed. Notice this takes a long time and a lot of patience. I just removed a Navy front sight blade that had been through Hurricane Katrinas salt water and the blade was damaged so I knew it would be tough, 3 days in Kroil and it popped out, YUREEKA!

PS sometimes I use a lead brickette (from handgun bullet casting operations) to hold the parts during the hammer/punch operation

G.T. · 02-12-2011, 06:25 PM

Hi Rich, most of the time they're like that... or even less effort.. just once and a great while, you get the nasty stuck one...

I've noticed most all the pins have a similar chamfer, radius, etc.. must be from the cut off tools, or maybe a way to designate direction of easy assembly...???.. Really don't know, just guessing...

best to you, til...lat'r...GT

sheepherder · 02-14-2011, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thor

...then put in a freezer in a zip lock to keep oil from getting in the freezer, leave it over night, then add some heat from a blow driver.

...

...Maybe a "blow dryer"??? Like your wife's hair dryer??? No wives left here [hooray!] and they took their hair dryers with them...

Is there some reason (besides fussy wife) not to have oil in freezer??? Does it react with the Freon or something???

Quote:

PS sometimes I use a lead brickette (from handgun bullet casting operations) to hold the parts during the hammer/punch operation

Do you punch the pin right into the lead brickette??? That's something I had not thought of...I sometimes do that with wood, but not on a Luger pin...I'll have to remember that...

Thor · 02-14-2011, 11:27 AM

Yes a hair dryer.
Just dont like oil me steak packages! har har
Yes, I do punch it into the lead, but then after it starts I put it on a punch thing that has several different size holes for the pin to move in.

John Sabato · 02-14-2011, 01:00 PM

Quote:

"I put it on a punch thing"

Punch Thing?... is that gunsmith-ese for a punch or bench block... Nice one Ted!

your memory works a lot like mine! I knew exactly what you meant...

Here's what a typical bench block looks like for those that don't know...

sheepherder · 02-14-2011, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thor

Just dont like oil me steak packages!

In my house, the oven and freezer are shop tools...

Quote:

I put it on a punch thing...

Ah - So that's the technical term!!!

(I didn't know what it was called either)

02-12-2011, 05:37 PM	#1
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,197 Thanks: 1,416 Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts	Coupling Link Pin Removal I recall one of the 'Norms' saying that all Luger pins are driven out from right to left... I'm looking at the Hintergelenk on the Luger CD, and it does not appear to be a tapered hole...the dimension is 2.6mm straight through...doesn't seem to have a flange... Why would it matter which way to drive it out??? I need to remove one of these to fit a shorter link... Is this a really tight press fit??? My arbor press is only rated for 1-ton... __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

02-12-2011, 06:01 PM	#2
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,528 Thanks: 1,334 Thanked 3,711 Times in 1,014 Posts	pin fit... Hello to all, coupling link pin is straight, and should be a "tight slip fit??" (is that like an oximoron??) I have run into some that simply will just never move, heat and a press was my only choice at one time in my life... now being older, aaannnnddd.... wiser?? Nawwww.. Anyway, now I would soak it in penatrating oil for how ever long it takes.. and the initial bust loose punch would be a thick dia. with just a short correct dia. push end.. (you can alway bring out the wimpy punches after you get movement)....and into the arbor press we'would go........ I only use hammers after a few beers... results then, usually are fairly predictable... Good luck, best to all, til...lat'r...GT BTW, IMPORTANT!!!! first, you have to make a heavy duty support fixture for the toggle link to press dead nut flat... not kind'a flat... but flat punch end, total contact to flat coupling link pin end... Any extra movement / flex anywhere will steal your thunder... only then, after we have NOT done this, do we get out the beer....

02-12-2011, 06:20 PM	#3
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,197 Thanks: 1,416 Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts	Thanks Gerald! It only took a moderate amount of pressure in the arbor press to start it, and a finishing nail to [er...] finish driving it out... It did seem to have a slight bias to being driven out from right to left...the left end was ground flat, while the right end seems slightly domed...might just be my eyes, though... __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

02-12-2011, 06:24 PM	#4
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	I sometime run in to this. The bad bad boys are the sear bar plunger disconnector pin (small as a push pin in diameter), the front sight blad, the coupling link pin, and the small pin that goes through the top of the rear toggle link that retains the middle toggle axle pin. Soak in Kroil 3-4 days, then put in a freezer in a zip lock to keep oil from getting in the freezer, leave it over night, then add some heat from a blow driver. Hopfully the metal around the offending part will be slightly larger (due to the temperature diffential) than than the pin and the pin can now be removed. Notice this takes a long time and a lot of patience. I just removed a Navy front sight blade that had been through Hurricane Katrinas salt water and the blade was damaged so I knew it would be tough, 3 days in Kroil and it popped out, YUREEKA! PS sometimes I use a lead brickette (from handgun bullet casting operations) to hold the parts during the hammer/punch operation __________________ Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God."

02-12-2011, 06:25 PM	#5
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,528 Thanks: 1,334 Thanked 3,711 Times in 1,014 Posts	most of the time... Hi Rich, most of the time they're like that... or even less effort.. just once and a great while, you get the nasty stuck one... I've noticed most all the pins have a similar chamfer, radius, etc.. must be from the cut off tools, or maybe a way to designate direction of easy assembly...???.. Really don't know, just guessing... best to you, til...lat'r...GT

02-14-2011, 11:27 AM	#7
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	Yes a hair dryer. Just dont like oil me steak packages! har har Yes, I do punch it into the lead, but then after it starts I put it on a punch thing that has several different size holes for the pin to move in. __________________ Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God."