can i tighten up the trigger a bit?

starshippe · 10-04-2009, 07:08 PM

. . i recently bought what appears to be a 1938 luger, s/n 681. i have to pull the trigger all the way back before she fires. can i bend the "L" bracket just a bit without worrying about it breaking?

. . other info; numbers match except for magazine. witness marks line up. still has the million dollar chip.

. . does anyone else use their second finger on the trigger?

. . i have fired it several dozen times, with a few jams. i have another magazine coming, as this one seems to jam just loading it. i havent cleaned it yet, as i just learned how to break it down.

. . should any "luger" 9mm ammo work ok? if not, what kind should i get? i'm using remington 9mm luger 124 grain.

. . thanks for any info. i've always wanted a luger and i'm having a good time learning about it. is this cursive "N" looking thingy between the trigger guard and the barrel the mauser logo?

bill

FNorm · 10-04-2009, 07:43 PM

Careful! Lugers become an addiction.

One thing to check: Is the spring behind the trigger square to the frame. Sometimes these get a little sideways. Causing a strange pull

Most folks here like the Winchester White box 9mm. Lugers seem to like a longer OAL.

Fn

Ron Wood · 10-04-2009, 07:57 PM

DO NOT bend the "L" shaped trigger transfer bar. It is hardened and will break if you attempt to bend it.
If the cursive "N" looking thingy is on the front of the frame just below the serial number, it is part of the serial number, i.e. the actual serial number is 681n.

EricW · 10-04-2009, 08:00 PM

If it has S/42 on the top (on the toggle) that is the Mauser code.

alanint · 10-04-2009, 08:17 PM

I have had good luck in improving shooter trigger pulls by adding a bit of JB Weld to the top pad of the trigger bar, thus tightening up the tolerance between it and the sear. Add a bead, let it dry then reassemble. If it is too much and the pistol binds, file away a bit of the Weld and keep trying until you get a pull that is acceptable. When you file, make sure to "ramp" the bead from the rear so the sear flows over it when returning to battery.

starshippe · 10-04-2009, 08:23 PM

. . ok no bending the bracket. will something like heat shrink tubing add enough to tighten the trigger?

. . thanks for all the info.

. . 681n it is. i had read about the alpha s/n suffix but still didnt make the connection due to the cursive lettering.

thanks,

bill

starshippe · 10-04-2009, 08:30 PM

. . eric, yes, has the s4/2 on top.

. . alan, ok will try that if my heat shrink tubing doesnt do it.

thanks much all,

bill

starshippe · 10-06-2009, 05:50 PM

. . i am trying a wee bit of heat shrink tubing to tighten the trigger action a little. this method doesn't take but a minute and will not leave any permanent marks.

. . parts needed: one 1/16 inch piece of heat shrink tubing. (no, you can't buy it by the inch.) one match.

. . it seems to fire the snap caps better, and hope to get it on the range later this week. i think i can still add another round of heat shrink if needed.

. . i appreciate all the help and comments i received on my post. i am really enjoying the toggle top and plan to buy one for each of my two sons, in addition to a few more for myself.

. . heres a pic of the mod....

thanks again,
bill

starshippe · 10-07-2009, 12:50 AM

. . i pull on the trigger, the L bracket pushes in on the round part of the front of the sear lever, the back of the lever releases the firing pin, all hell breaks loose, and the sear lever etc depart for points rearward.

. . some brass is moved around, the sear lever etc head forward, the firing pin is cocked again.....

. . assuming that i still have my finger on the trigger, what keeps the sear lever from being pushed in by the L bracket as it squeezes its way home, and releasing the firing pin once again?

. . in other words, if i add too much stuff to the trigger linkage, and make it too tight, am i going to have myself a fully automatic luger?

. . i wonder if this is why its kinda tight to begin with. comments would be most appreciated.

thanks,

bill

MFC · 10-07-2009, 02:12 AM

The round part on the front of the sear bar is a spring loaded plunger. It is depressed by the trigger lever "L bracket" as the sear bar moves forward. It is released when the trigger is released. If the plunger doesn't release (too much shrink wrap), it would be the same as not releasing the trigger.

starshippe · 10-07-2009, 09:11 AM

. . thanks for the info.

bill

Lugerdoc · 10-07-2009, 10:03 AM

MFC et al, The spring loaded sear bar "plunger" is in fact the DISCONNECTOR. TH

10-04-2009, 07:08 PM	#1
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	can i tighten up the trigger a bit? . . i recently bought what appears to be a 1938 luger, s/n 681. i have to pull the trigger all the way back before she fires. can i bend the "L" bracket just a bit without worrying about it breaking? . . other info; numbers match except for magazine. witness marks line up. still has the million dollar chip. . . does anyone else use their second finger on the trigger? . . i have fired it several dozen times, with a few jams. i have another magazine coming, as this one seems to jam just loading it. i havent cleaned it yet, as i just learned how to break it down. . . should any "luger" 9mm ammo work ok? if not, what kind should i get? i'm using remington 9mm luger 124 grain. . . thanks for any info. i've always wanted a luger and i'm having a good time learning about it. is this cursive "N" looking thingy between the trigger guard and the barrel the mauser logo? bill

10-04-2009, 07:57 PM	#3
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,040 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,257 Times in 1,724 Posts	DO NOT bend the "L" shaped trigger transfer bar. It is hardened and will break if you attempt to bend it. If the cursive "N" looking thingy is on the front of the frame just below the serial number, it is part of the serial number, i.e. the actual serial number is 681n. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

10-04-2009, 08:23 PM	#6
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	that was fast... thanks... . . ok no bending the bracket. will something like heat shrink tubing add enough to tighten the trigger? . . thanks for all the info. . . 681n it is. i had read about the alpha s/n suffix but still didnt make the connection due to the cursive lettering. thanks, bill Attached Thumbnails

10-04-2009, 08:30 PM	#7
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	jeeezzz... answers coming too fast... . . eric, yes, has the s4/2 on top. . . alan, ok will try that if my heat shrink tubing doesnt do it. thanks much all, bill

10-06-2009, 05:50 PM	#8
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	the heat shrink seems to work. . . i am trying a wee bit of heat shrink tubing to tighten the trigger action a little. this method doesn't take but a minute and will not leave any permanent marks. . . parts needed: one 1/16 inch piece of heat shrink tubing. (no, you can't buy it by the inch.) one match. . . it seems to fire the snap caps better, and hope to get it on the range later this week. i think i can still add another round of heat shrink if needed. . . i appreciate all the help and comments i received on my post. i am really enjoying the toggle top and plan to buy one for each of my two sons, in addition to a few more for myself. . . heres a pic of the mod.... thanks again, bill Attached Thumbnails

10-04-2009, 07:43 PM	#2
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Careful! Lugers become an addiction. One thing to check: Is the spring behind the trigger square to the frame. Sometimes these get a little sideways. Causing a strange pull Most folks here like the Winchester White box 9mm. Lugers seem to like a longer OAL. Fn

10-04-2009, 08:00 PM	#4
EricW User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: CA, USA Posts: 62 Thanks: 4 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	If it has S/42 on the top (on the toggle) that is the Mauser code.

10-04-2009, 08:17 PM	#5
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,917 Times in 1,193 Posts	I have had good luck in improving shooter trigger pulls by adding a bit of JB Weld to the top pad of the trigger bar, thus tightening up the tolerance between it and the sear. Add a bead, let it dry then reassemble. If it is too much and the pistol binds, file away a bit of the Weld and keep trying until you get a pull that is acceptable. When you file, make sure to "ramp" the bead from the rear so the sear flows over it when returning to battery.

10-07-2009, 12:50 AM	#9
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	now i'm worried.... . . i pull on the trigger, the L bracket pushes in on the round part of the front of the sear lever, the back of the lever releases the firing pin, all hell breaks loose, and the sear lever etc depart for points rearward. . . some brass is moved around, the sear lever etc head forward, the firing pin is cocked again..... . . assuming that i still have my finger on the trigger, what keeps the sear lever from being pushed in by the L bracket as it squeezes its way home, and releasing the firing pin once again? . . in other words, if i add too much stuff to the trigger linkage, and make it too tight, am i going to have myself a fully automatic luger? . . i wonder if this is why its kinda tight to begin with. comments would be most appreciated. thanks, bill

10-07-2009, 02:12 AM	#10
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	The round part on the front of the sear bar is a spring loaded plunger. It is depressed by the trigger lever "L bracket" as the sear bar moves forward. It is released when the trigger is released. If the plunger doesn't release (too much shrink wrap), it would be the same as not releasing the trigger. __________________ Mike C.

10-07-2009, 09:11 AM	#11
starshippe User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: brunswick, ga. Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	ah, thanks . . thanks for the info. bill

10-07-2009, 10:03 AM	#12
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	MFC et al, The spring loaded sear bar "plunger" is in fact the DISCONNECTOR. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net