Cure for swollen grips?

paradox998 · 11-20-2007, 08:36 PM

I have a 1906 AE. The grips were fairly dark so I followed Buchanan's method for cleaning them (StripX followed by acetone). After they dried I treated them with Tung Oil. I dabbed the oil on, but may have been too generous. After they dried I found that the left grip had swollen slightly and will not fit. I let them air dry for a few days, but no change. I tried gently drying them further by using a blow dryer on low, but again no luck. That was three months ago. I put them in the safe hoping that the desicants would dry them further and that they would fit. Just tried them and no luck. The left grip is just ever so slightly too long and I sure don't want to force it. Any suggestions for getting the grip to fit?

Mauser720 · 11-20-2007, 09:40 PM

paradox998 -

If you are very patient and work slowly and carefully, you can use a Swiss needle file to gradually remove wood from the spot that is preventing the grip from fitting.

Depending on where the wood needs to be removed, you will use either a flat file, or a triangular file, or a round file.

All the wood you will be removing will either be on the back side of the grip, or on the top end when it fits into the side. So your work will not show.

Make a few strokes with the file, then place the grip back on the gun. Continue to work slowly like this until eventually you will have removed enough wood that the grip will fit.

This will work, provided you are very careful. When I do someting like this it takes me forever because I'm always concerned I will break something or ruin something.

Mauser720 - Ron

paradox998 · 11-20-2007, 09:49 PM

Thank for the advice. Now I only have to work up my nerve and patience! I was afraid that the answer might be files.

Pete Ebbink · 11-20-2007, 10:26 PM

Hal,

If moisture and oil caused the wood fibers to swell, would one of those kitchen vacuum preserving machines be worth a try...

Place the wood grip in the vacuum bag or container with some paper towels wrapped aroudn the grip and then apply vacuum to try to "dry" out the wood...???...paper towels serving to soak up any moisture/oil that would come out of the wood...

Might be worth a try on a single grip you do not care about first...

Mauser720 · 11-20-2007, 10:44 PM

Pete -

That is an excellent idea!

paradox998 -

Based on Pete's suggestion, here's another idea: You know the dryed out clay particles that you sprinkle on a concrete floor to dry up spilled oil? I think one of the name brands is "Oil Dry" and mechanics use it to soak up spilled motor oils or hydrolics fluids, etc. You might be able to put that inside the vacuum bag with your grips too. Or you might be able to put the grips in a fruit jar of that stuff and leave them for a while.

Anything that is "non destructive" is worth a try.

Mauser720 - Ron

paradox998 · 11-20-2007, 10:58 PM

Great ideas. I also remember reading something about boiling grips to get the oil out. Sounds a bit scary. I will try the least destructive was first. If anything else comes to mind please let me know! Thanks again

policeluger · 11-20-2007, 11:09 PM

I think the kitchen vacuum was the breaking point and I must speak out, try "old fashioned whiting" from Brownells 1-800-741-0015, talk to a tech rep, not near as much fun as cat litter on a concrete floor, but will do a professional job....

paradox998 · 11-20-2007, 11:23 PM

Just checked Brownells. The old fashioned whiting sounds like the first idea to try. Looks like a good solution. Thanks for the tip.

MFC · 11-21-2007, 02:21 AM

Speaking of kitchen appliances. I was thinking of the thing that freeze dries fruit and vegetables. Removes the moisture and shrinks whatever's in it. You could buy it for the wife for Christmas.

Mike C.

Lugerdoc · 11-21-2007, 09:08 AM

I'd be surprised if the "swollen" grip is original to this luger, if just hydrating it back to it's original size caused it not to fit. TH

paradox998 · 11-21-2007, 09:48 AM

I think they are original. The one that does not fit is very close to fitting and they are numbered and the age seems appropriate. They fit snugly before cleaning and I guess I showed my lack of experience in not realizing that just a little hydration would be enough to make the left grip too tight. I want to be expecially careful on the left grip, given the potential for a "million dollar chip" under the safety level. Anyway, hope that they are original, but I could be mistaken.

Mauser720 · 11-21-2007, 10:11 AM

paradox998 -

You mentioned you "just checked with Brownells" so if I am telling you something they already told you, you can disregard this part of this post. One of the wasy to use the "whitening" requires some kind of solvent to use with it. The solvent I have used is "TCE Cleaner - Degreaser" because that was recommended. However this stuff is toxic, and excessive exposure to the fumes can even be fatal. You make a paste out of the whitening and the solvent, and apply this paste to the finished wood surface, and let it dry. The whitening is supposed to draw the oil out of the wood. After you have waited to give the capillary action of the dried paste time to work, you then remove the dried paste. I've had mixed results using it; however, the wood I was using it on was really a "basket case" too. Depending on the solvent you use, just remember that it is extremely important to maintain adequate ventilation.

Now one more thing: The post you read about boiling grips may have been one I made recently. You mentioned your grips are numbered. Now if you do boil your grips, those numbers are going to disappear. Boiling grips has the same effect as steaming the dent out of a stock. All the pressed in wood will be raised. So this is something to be aware of too.

Good luck with your project.

Mauser720 - Ron

paradox998 · 11-21-2007, 10:16 AM

Correction - the grips are proofed, but not numbered. I went ahead and recleaned them with the stripper and they are drying. I am going to see if they fit with out any oil. If they don't, next step will bw whiting. If I don't see much of a difference I can go to the oil sorb and finally a file. They are so close to fitting, that I hope just getting the tung oil out will do it.

MFC · 11-22-2007, 12:39 AM

Hal,
I've never heard of proofs on grips from a 1906 AE. Are they C/N or BUG proofs, or inspection stamps of various numbers or letters?
Mike C.

paradox998 · 11-22-2007, 01:44 PM

I look again, and I have to admit now I am not sure. They may be marks indicating right and left and they are faint. I guess I should look more closely before posting a comment. The gun has C/N on the barrel and on the frame. The frame is a lazy C/N I believe, it is on it's side. Sorry for any confusion and I stand corrected. Hope all have a great Thanksgiving.

11-20-2007, 08:36 PM	#1
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Cure for swollen grips? I have a 1906 AE. The grips were fairly dark so I followed Buchanan's method for cleaning them (StripX followed by acetone). After they dried I treated them with Tung Oil. I dabbed the oil on, but may have been too generous. After they dried I found that the left grip had swollen slightly and will not fit. I let them air dry for a few days, but no change. I tried gently drying them further by using a blow dryer on low, but again no luck. That was three months ago. I put them in the safe hoping that the desicants would dry them further and that they would fit. Just tried them and no luck. The left grip is just ever so slightly too long and I sure don't want to force it. Any suggestions for getting the grip to fit?

11-20-2007, 09:40 PM	#2
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	paradox998 - If you are very patient and work slowly and carefully, you can use a Swiss needle file to gradually remove wood from the spot that is preventing the grip from fitting. Depending on where the wood needs to be removed, you will use either a flat file, or a triangular file, or a round file. All the wood you will be removing will either be on the back side of the grip, or on the top end when it fits into the side. So your work will not show. Make a few strokes with the file, then place the grip back on the gun. Continue to work slowly like this until eventually you will have removed enough wood that the grip will fit. This will work, provided you are very careful. When I do someting like this it takes me forever because I'm always concerned I will break something or ruin something. Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

11-20-2007, 10:44 PM	#5
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	Pete - That is an excellent idea! paradox998 - Based on Pete's suggestion, here's another idea: You know the dryed out clay particles that you sprinkle on a concrete floor to dry up spilled oil? I think one of the name brands is "Oil Dry" and mechanics use it to soak up spilled motor oils or hydrolics fluids, etc. You might be able to put that inside the vacuum bag with your grips too. Or you might be able to put the grips in a fruit jar of that stuff and leave them for a while. Anything that is "non destructive" is worth a try. Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

11-21-2007, 02:21 AM	#9
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	Speaking of kitchen appliances. I was thinking of the thing that freeze dries fruit and vegetables. Removes the moisture and shrinks whatever's in it. You could buy it for the wife for Christmas. Mike C. __________________ Mike C.

11-21-2007, 09:08 AM	#10
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 737 Times in 484 Posts	I'd be surprised if the "swollen" grip is original to this luger, if just hydrating it back to it's original size caused it not to fit. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

11-20-2007, 09:49 PM	#3
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thank for the advice. Now I only have to work up my nerve and patience! I was afraid that the answer might be files.

11-20-2007, 10:26 PM	#4
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Hal, If moisture and oil caused the wood fibers to swell, would one of those kitchen vacuum preserving machines be worth a try... Place the wood grip in the vacuum bag or container with some paper towels wrapped aroudn the grip and then apply vacuum to try to "dry" out the wood...???...paper towels serving to soak up any moisture/oil that would come out of the wood... Might be worth a try on a single grip you do not care about first...

11-20-2007, 10:58 PM	#6
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Great ideas. I also remember reading something about boiling grips to get the oil out. Sounds a bit scary. I will try the least destructive was first. If anything else comes to mind please let me know! Thanks again

11-20-2007, 11:09 PM	#7
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	I think the kitchen vacuum was the breaking point and I must speak out, try "old fashioned whiting" from Brownells 1-800-741-0015, talk to a tech rep, not near as much fun as cat litter on a concrete floor, but will do a professional job....

11-20-2007, 11:23 PM	#8
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Just checked Brownells. The old fashioned whiting sounds like the first idea to try. Looks like a good solution. Thanks for the tip.

11-21-2007, 09:48 AM	#11
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I think they are original. The one that does not fit is very close to fitting and they are numbered and the age seems appropriate. They fit snugly before cleaning and I guess I showed my lack of experience in not realizing that just a little hydration would be enough to make the left grip too tight. I want to be expecially careful on the left grip, given the potential for a "million dollar chip" under the safety level. Anyway, hope that they are original, but I could be mistaken.

11-21-2007, 10:11 AM	#12
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	paradox998 - You mentioned you "just checked with Brownells" so if I am telling you something they already told you, you can disregard this part of this post. One of the wasy to use the "whitening" requires some kind of solvent to use with it. The solvent I have used is "TCE Cleaner - Degreaser" because that was recommended. However this stuff is toxic, and excessive exposure to the fumes can even be fatal. You make a paste out of the whitening and the solvent, and apply this paste to the finished wood surface, and let it dry. The whitening is supposed to draw the oil out of the wood. After you have waited to give the capillary action of the dried paste time to work, you then remove the dried paste. I've had mixed results using it; however, the wood I was using it on was really a "basket case" too. Depending on the solvent you use, just remember that it is extremely important to maintain adequate ventilation. Now one more thing: The post you read about boiling grips may have been one I made recently. You mentioned your grips are numbered. Now if you do boil your grips, those numbers are going to disappear. Boiling grips has the same effect as steaming the dent out of a stock. All the pressed in wood will be raised. So this is something to be aware of too. Good luck with your project. Mauser720 - Ron __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

11-21-2007, 10:16 AM	#13
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Correction - the grips are proofed, but not numbered. I went ahead and recleaned them with the stripper and they are drying. I am going to see if they fit with out any oil. If they don't, next step will bw whiting. If I don't see much of a difference I can go to the oil sorb and finally a file. They are so close to fitting, that I hope just getting the tung oil out will do it.

11-22-2007, 12:39 AM	#14
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	Hal, I've never heard of proofs on grips from a 1906 AE. Are they C/N or BUG proofs, or inspection stamps of various numbers or letters? Mike C. __________________ Mike C.

11-22-2007, 01:44 PM	#15
paradox998 User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 105 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I look again, and I have to admit now I am not sure. They may be marks indicating right and left and they are faint. I guess I should look more closely before posting a comment. The gun has C/N on the barrel and on the frame. The frame is a lazy C/N I believe, it is on it's side. Sorry for any confusion and I stand corrected. Hope all have a great Thanksgiving.