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#1 |
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Help if you can!
With several attempts and different magazines, I was unable to get my new luger to fire the second round. Each time the first round would fire, eject the shell casing and chamber the second round. However, when I pulled the trigger to fire the second round-nothing! I check the primer and there was no indent from the firing pin. Any suggestions? Mike |
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#2 |
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Mike,
Does it click when you squeeze the trigger? Have you field stripped it yet? If not then be careful removing the side plate. If the trigger lever drops out you may need a new trigger lever pin to hold it reliably in place. This same kind of thing happened to me with my Arty when I first git it. Also remove the firing pin to clean out any solidified oil and dirt that may be fouling it. Beyond this I leave it to the experts on the Forum to determine if there is a cocking problem caused by too stiff of a main spring or worn parts. I've been here only two months myself. Best of luck, Russell
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#3 |
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Woops!
One already got to you. Russell
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#4 |
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Yes, I cleaned and oiled the luger before firing it. I am using Wallyworld ammo and I did not limp wrist it. It is field stripped on my work bench and the trigger assembly appears to be in order.
Also, on the second shot - there was no "click" Mike |
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#5 |
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Thank you all for your help. I will try Tac's suggestion tomorrow.
Mike |
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#6 |
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I tried Tac's suggestion:
"To check on this, remove the cannon, as I believe the moving working parts are called where you live, and fully **** the toggles. They will stay at the limit of their travel. Insert a FIRED case into the breech, and close the toggles, and then squeeze the sear bar at the front - you should hear a click as the striker descends on the fired primer. If not, then you have a problem with the striker not being cocked as the action cycles. Is the lump [in gun-making terms, technically called a 'lump'] on the bottom of the striker intact and in good shape? Not rounded or worn away? Striker spring in good shape?" It clicked every time. The lump behind the striker and the spring seem to be in pretty good shape as well. Tac - do you have any other suggestions? Anyone else? Mike |
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#7 |
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Mike, is your firing pin well lubricated??? Well it may just be too well lubricated. I had the same problem with one of my Lugers and found that when I removed the lubrication from the firing pin and the firing pin cavity in the breech block, then just lightly coated these areas by rubbing them with an cloth with just a bit of oil, my problem went away. You might try it!! GOOD LUCK!
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#8 |
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Thank you Tac! The 115 gr Winchester stuff might be a little anemic for this gun. By the way, I bought the gun at a local gun shop when the grandson of the vet brought it in. The magazines still had some WWII era rounds in it and it probably had not been shot in 40+ years. Except for normal holster wear, it showed little useage wear internally.
I will try some S&B 124gr and see if that does the trick. Cheers, Mike |
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#9 |
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I will also take a Q-Tip to the firing pin, cavity and breech block as Frank suggests.
Thank you all! Mike |
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#10 |
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One final thought. Perhaps the plunger (disconnect) in the front of the sear bar is stuck or binding so that it doesn't move back under the transfer lever when the trigger is released. That condition won't show up when you try the cannon off the frame trick.
Fortunately the striker is moving freely and the striker spring is not so strong that the uncocked striker gives you a slam fire when the bolt closes on a fresh round.
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#11 |
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Thank you Ron,
Anyway to check on plunger function? Mike |
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Push it in and see how readily it pops back out. Should move freely.
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#13 |
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Problem Solved!
A gunsmith friend solved the problem. It turned out that the top portion of "L" shaped lever connected to the trigger plate needed slight grinding to properly mesh with the trigger. The gun works perfectly now. In fact at the range, I did some of my best shooting at 25 yards. Thank you all for your input since this helped in the process of eliminating some of the possible causes of the problem. Best Regards, Mike |
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