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#1 |
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What do I need to know to remove a Luger 4" barrel and replace it with an 8" barrel (with rear sight)? And what do I need to know about removing the original rear sight? A project looms to convert a shooter to an Artillery Luger.
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#2 |
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Bill, You definately need a receiver wrench that is cut to the shape of a luger reciever, otherwise you will either crack the receiver or at least damage its finish, and a good strong barrel vise with brass inserts shaped to the luger barrel. Also a lot of experience is a big help, so if you haven't done it before, I don't recomment you trying it. Once the barrel is changed, it should be head spaced and chamber reamed if necessary. I do the above for $100 plus shipping. Rather than grinding the rear sight off of your rear toggle link, I have several original LPO8 rear links available in the $20 to $50 range, depending on finish and would allow up to half off in trade for your standard PO8 rear link. Tom h
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#3 |
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Tom:
You mean the old plumber's pipe wrench routine won't work? I was planning on taking it to a gunsmith but I think a LUGER gunsmith such as you would be a much better idea. I assume that you would not need the frame and we could ship gun parts back and forth with no FFL hassles (I let my FFL expire). On the other hand, I have nor seen the pistol yet. I ordered a $395 shooter from SARCO. It may be that I would want to get it refinished. Do you do that? Straw, etc.? And the cost? I will take you up on the togle trade offer. I hate the thought of grinding on a Luger, any Luger, even a shooter. Speaking of shooters, I like to shoot my guns occasionally, even my (late production? Ask Kyrie.) Shanzi .45 broomhandle. The thought of shooting an original, all matching, Artillery Luger scares me due to the possibility of parts breakage. Thus the current project. Bill aka WaffenAmt (on gunboards) |
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#4 |
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Tom, Got any 6" bull barrels?
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#5 |
Lifer
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on the forum... The search function is at the top of the main discussion page. There are important threads that contain information you need to know about artillery luger reproductions and shoulder stock use to keep you legal and out of trouble with the ATF.
Welcome to the Lugerforum! regards, John Sabato |
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#6 |
RIP
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My buddy, Bob Best, took his new art'y to the range...he fired ONE shot and that sucker blew the extractor right out.. Had to have it 'rebuilt' to keep the numbers matching..
There is a moral to that story....get it? |
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#7 |
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Another theory bantered around is that many of the Erfurt Lugers had the rear sight notch cut in front of the chamber area just in the event they ended up being finished as an Artillery rather than many of them being reworked. Most of the 4" models you see with the notch are Erfurts. ~Thor~
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#8 |
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The receiver notch for the rear sight is shown by Still in TRL to be original as issued with the 4" model with chamber dates of 1917 and 1918. ~Thor~
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#9 |
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OOPS, in Imperial Lugers I meant
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#10 |
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John:
Thanks, I did the search and understand about stocks. Bill |
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#11 |
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Rick, you are right about the screw, I noticed that on Don's Artillery that I worked on! I have also seen the cut on some DWM double dates! Thor
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#12 |
Lifer
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Here is one of the 1918 Erfurt receivers that was NOT built into an artillery model. This one sports a standard 4 inch barrel.
Not all notched receivers were made into Artillery Models... we just WISH they had been so there would be more of them! -John http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Ar...edreceiver.jpg |
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#13 |
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I believe Erfurt started the notch sometime in mid 1916.
Lonnie |
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#14 |
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Thanks to all for the good info. At the last minute I backed away from ordering a SARCO $395 shooter and abandoned my "home-made artillery project." I found a mismatched real Artillery Luger for what it would have cost me to make an Artillery shooter from the cheapest East German rework I could find. So why would I want an Artillery parts gun with a modern barrel and sight when I could get the real thing for the same price?
Bill aka WaffenAmt |
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#15 |
Lifer
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and you can legally put an artillery stock on this one!
-John |
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