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Unread 05-12-2013, 10:11 PM   #1
dfm
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Default Grip problem...

I'm having continual problems with my right grip on a 70's Mauser Parabellum, Swiss type. After purchase I noticed it was a bit loose and always shifted forward when handling/shooting. The two brass pins kept it on the gun but the grip would still shift around.

I sent the grips to Hugh C. to have them recut and ordered a pair of plastic ones from Vintage Gun Grips to use in the interim. Well, long story short, they do the same thing. In fact, I'm on my second right panel as the two pins (plastic nubs in this case) have sheared off on both panels.

I reload but everything is to standard specs. The gun shoots fantastically well but this grip problem is driving me crazy. I've got electrical tape holding body and soul together for now. Short of gluing it on can anyone offer any tips/recommendations for getting the darn thing to stay put.
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Unread 05-12-2013, 10:38 PM   #2
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Try little wooden shims; also tiny "O" rings. There is a sticky on this subject. See if you can search for it or ask for help finding it.
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Unread 05-12-2013, 10:39 PM   #3
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Tom, the same thing happened to my right grip panel from Vintage grips. I'll take responsibility for snapping the little bugger off while fitting them...shoulda taken a lick or two off the peg. Haven't gotten around to doing anything about it, yet, but have a couple of ideas:

One way to replace the locator pin is with a substitute protruding from a small base which could be bonded into a shallow depression milled out to fit it...picture a thumb tack upside down.

Another way is to replace the stub with a tapered ridge of material that runs the full length of the inside of the frame relief the stub contacted. I've seen this on wooden grips, and I think it can be facsimilied in an epoxy that would bond with the urethane. When you get the prototype finished, send it to V,G.G and they will make you a new one in the new shape, all one piece; and return your prototype, for free, I'll bet, since it would be a grip new to them.

A third way would be to tap a blind hole in the back of the grip which would allow an insert with a protruding stub to be screwed in. I wonder how Loctite will work on the metal/urethane interface.

Personally, I'm goin' for the second method. Mechanically has a better chance of holding than a pin/stub that takes all the pressure.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 10:37 AM   #4
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Thanks for all the suggestions. But until I get the original walnut grips back after being reshaped/recheckered I'm using duct tape wrapped tightly around the plastic ones for now. It holds them relatively solid for bench work. But the thought of a healthy dose of Gorilla Glue is still in the back of my mind!
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Unread 05-13-2013, 02:00 PM   #5
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Use a Hot-Glue gun and run a bead where required (on the frame, not the grips), just before it cools and sets up put the grip on. It will fill any voids holding the grips in place, and it can be easily removed if need be.

I've used it on the wood grips of a few original collector grade Lugers. It's always worked for me, without any problems.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 03:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Smith View Post
Use a Hot-Glue gun and run a bead where required (on the frame, not the grips), just before it cools and sets up put the grip on. It will fill any voids holding the grips in place, and it can be easily removed if need be.

I've used it on the wood grips of a few original collector grade Lugers. It's always worked for me, without any problems.
That's a neat idea! I have used J-B Weld wood epoxy in a similar fashion, I just oil the frame lightly and press the grip in place. Hot glue sounds quicker though.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 05:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Smith View Post
Use a Hot-Glue gun and run a bead where required (on the frame, not the grips), just before it cools and sets up put the grip on. It will fill any voids holding the grips in place, and it can be easily removed if need be.

I've used it on the wood grips of a few original collector grade Lugers. It's always worked for me, without any problems.


That is a great idea, now if I can just remember it until I need it!!
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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Smith View Post
Use a Hot-Glue gun and run a bead where required (on the frame, not the grips), just before it cools and sets up put the grip on. It will fill any voids holding the grips in place, and it can be easily removed if need be.

I've used it on the wood grips of a few original collector grade Lugers. It's always worked for me, without any problems.
Excellent, a quick and easy fix that should be quite effective!
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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:36 AM   #9
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You may also do the same with fast set super glue. Bill]
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Unread 05-14-2013, 12:03 PM   #10
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I added a couple drops of Gorilla Super Glue to key points on the frame and after a couple minutes of pressing the grip's as solid as a rock. I'll shoot her this afternoon and see how the grip holds up under recoil. Thanks for all the help offered here. Some excellent tips.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #11
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Hello gentlemen,

Might I just ask whether it can occur that an original grip, numbered to the gun, can sit a bit loose or shift forward or up and down (let's say 0.5 to 1mm approximately)? To me, it is a "warning light", but I have seen it occur on 100% original pistols. However, I would like to know your opinions about it

Thanks in advance,
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Unread 05-15-2013, 06:14 PM   #12
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Tim, although I've not yet observed this, I don't see why it could not happen under certain circumstances. Any mechanical force has the potential to compress wood grain/fiber, or actually shear off the subtle relief(s) on the backside that keep the grips located. I don't think shrinkage would be a factor with original grips, unless they were processed/shaped while still slightly green...or if the gun spends its life in a climate that is generally more arid than Western Europe, it is probable that they have shrunk a bit. Depending on the geometry of the situation, it could account for the dimensions you give for the displacement. One might try to re-hydrate them slightly by leaving them in a sealed box with a slice of bread for a week or so, checking them daily to see if the fit improves. when satisfied, a round of oil finish or two would seal them and retard their tendency to dry.

I hope this helps. Let's count our lucky stars that the Germans did not use Franzite as the original material for grips!

D.P.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 12:48 PM   #13
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Default Well...

Ran a few mags through the gun today to see how the Gorilla Super Glue worked. Mind you I only used three light beads and the grip felt good and locked in after the adhesive dried. Sadly, after the second mag the grip came loose again. I'll try the glue gun method next. Will report back later.
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Unread 05-25-2013, 05:30 PM   #14
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Default Finally success...

When last here I was going to use a fair amount of Super Glue to hold a set of plastic interim grips on my Mauser 29/73. Before I went that route my original walnut ones returned from Hugh Clark having been thinned, recheckered then stained and sealed. Aside from being turned into a work of art both panels fit the gun perfectly. No looseness at all.

Took the piece to the range today and fired a couple hundred rounds through her, all reloads, running the gamet from soft target to my future coyote/jackrabbit buster. The grips stayed put and I shot the gun more accurately then ever before. I am one happy camper to say the least! Thanks to all you folks who offered tips and suggestions for fixing the problem. They were all much appreciated.
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